Charoen Krung Road, Thailand's first road completed in 1864, was once a hub of prosperity, rich with money, culture and diversity. Now in 2015, the road that runs past the Old City, along the river all the way to Thanon Tok, has enjoyed an urban revival. Once home to expats, embassies, religious and ethnic communities and shophouses, the road and its many sois have now been enlivened by a younger vibe, from Maitri Chit Road near Yaowarat (Chinatown) to the galleries in mid-Charoen Krung.
The part of Charoen Krung Road that has become an epitome of renovation in mood and tone is Soi Nana, or better known as Maitri Chit Road, not far from Yaowarat. Old shophouses that were once left unattended have been repossessed, renovated and gained more popularity as bars and art centres fill the area, each with a distinctive character.
Tep Bar is the most popular bar on this strip, due to its outstanding concept -- bringing Thainess to the bar scene, which has won over expats, as well as Thais. The old-school building suits the concept and the owners have added a few Thai elements into the decor -- a basket with a pulley to transport bills between the first and second floors, and a Thai traditional music and ranad (Thai xylophone) live show. Forget standard drinks and cocktails, Tep Bar offers various kinds of yadong (herbal liquor), which is not easy to find in Bangkok bars.
El Chiringuito, on the other hand, is a tapas bar, and was one of the first bars in the Maitri Chit area. Owners Sudaporn Sae-ia and her Spanish husband, Victor Hierro, couldn't find anywhere to hang out in Yaowarat, so decided to open their own retro bar two years ago. Filled with old posters and wooden furniture, the must-try drink here is Xoriguer gin, which goes well with albondigas and croquetas.
The open public space Cho Why run by Hierro and Friends is not only an exhibition space but a room for short-term creative projects and activities. It has hosted everything from flea markets to a swing dance party. Here, visitors can always expect the unexpected.
Don't forget to check out NACC (Nana Art & Culture Center), the latest art space on the soi owned by Jeff Gompertz and Francois Langello. It is set up in a theatrical environment that hosts video installation, photography and other arts events, much like an open studio. Gompertz and Langello have been living in the area for a while, and saw its potential as an art zone. The exhibition currently on display is "Light is the new Black", which runs until the end of this year.
Teens of Thailand.
Behind a mysterious wooden door against a concrete wall is Teens of Thailand, a gin bar, where the drink menu is changed daily. The shophouse's original condition is intact, while vintage tables are scattered around the bar to encourage customers to interact with each other. Bare cement walls are decorated with photographs by Kachain Wonglamthong, one of bar's co-founders.
It is surprising to see Nahim Cafe x Handcraft, a cute cafe among the hip bars on the soi. Painted in pastels, the building's structure blends old with the new, which owner Chalocha Ninthummachart says is the charm of the area. Food and desserts are well crafted, and handicrafts made by Chalocha and her friends are sold. Next year, she plans to run craft workshops on the second floor.
The one question on everyone's mind is: "Will the new cool destroy the area's old charm?"
"All the owners have always talked and discussed the direction that they would like to take from the start. So we have a mutual understanding to keep the buildings' uniqueness," said Chalocha. "But at the same time, each place has its own character and concept."
About a kilometre from Maitri Chit Road is mid-Charoen Krung, an area which houses the General Post Office and the Mandarin Oriental Hotel. Starting at O.P. Garden, a cozy community mall on Chareon Krung 36 with a few art galleries, Serindia, a pioneer, displays quite a few different kinds of Asian artworks, specifically from the Himalayan region. High quality and well-displayed works, as well as a collection of art books of Serindia's publishing house, can always be found here.
Atta Gallery is also worth checking out. While the jewellery market in Thailand is limited to luxury metals and precious stones, Atta presents contemporary jewellery. The owner helps promote artists whose works reflecting their concepts, styles and materials. Visitors can discover designs from Thai and foreign artists.
The room adjacent to Atta is the Paw Dee shop. The small store sells ceramic ware, paintings, bags and postcards, each with its own story that is shared by the shopkeeper. The shop also sources various handmade art pieces from every corner of Thailand, with 90% made or designed by Thai designers. There are a few products that are foreign, but reflect Thai culture and society.
On Charoen Krung 28, the raw-looking Speedy Grandma blends with the rest of the shophouses in the area. The gallery hosts exhibitions, installation art by upcoming artists, workshops and talks. The gallery's tiny bar is always packed with Thai and expat art aficionados.
A few more steps towards the main road takes you to Soy Sauce Factory. This loft space operates a bar decorated with light installation on the ground floor, while an art gallery is housed on the floor above. Most of the artworks exhibited here are groovy photographs, with parties hosted on the rooftop.
What's great about artsy Charoen Krung is that it makes for a perfect walking trip for a few hours, and includes food, coffee, drinks and art appreciation stops.
Nahim Cafe x Handcraft.
Atta Gallery.
Charoen Krung and Maitri Chit roads near Yaowarat have been enlivened by bars and art galleries.
