With its repositioning, Benjarong has taken a more rebellious route to Thai cuisine in place of the former traditional one. Out are royal recipes the restaurant was known for, for over two decades. In is a Thai menu with modern elements and presentation. And we like this revolution. Decor-wise, Benjarong keeps things pretty much the same except for some touch-up jobs and a logo change. A golden mural depicting the local traditional way of life, a cabinet of glistening Benjarong porcelain, and two columns with intricate hand-painted motifs are among the details that make the place look elegantly Thai. The floor-to-ceiling glass wall allows natural light to come in and offers a beautiful view of the adjoining garden with a waterfall. The real overhaul, however, has taken place in the menu that now offers something familiar, but with unfamiliar twists, courtesy of Danish chef Morten Boejstrup Nielsen who previously worked at Nahm in London and Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin. The patrons are Thai executives, Japanese expats, tourists as well as the 30-and-older crowd.
Benjarong
Contemporary Thai
Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama IV Road (BTS Sala Daeng or MRT Silom) Mon-Fri noon-2:30pm, Mon-Sun 6-10pm 02-200-9000 ext 2699
THE MENU
While tom yum goong usually looks deliciously busy with leaves and stalks, Benjarong's version (B340++) appears simpler but is still packed with flavours. Sizeable pieces of lightly fried juicy prawns are crispy. Poached young bulbs of shallot burst with slight sweetness while straw mushrooms offer a meaty texture. The aromatic soup has rounded spiciness and sourness. Served in a martini chiller glass, Yam pla duk foo deconstructed (B370) offers a lot of crunch and delicious contrast of flavours and textures. The crispy catfish and green mango salad is coupled with the creaminess of custard infused with tom yum and added delicateness of crab meat. Foie gras and tamarind chutney (B470) is worth getting over your guilty conscience for. The richness of foie gras is the main attraction, bolstered by sweet and sour pineapple foam, the pepper-ness of sliced basil leaves, crisp coriander sprout and more. Kang kiew wan see krong neau toon (B470) is worth its price given the Aussie beef rib is cooked sous vide for three days. The worth-the-wait succulent meat is cooked just right in green aromatic curry. Moo palo (B470) offers juicy braised pork neck with a side of stir-fried kale. If we had to pick a bone with this boneless delight, we'd say the sweet and sour puree of pickled pumpkin is too mild. Basil ice cream with fresh pineapple and salty meringue (B210) is quite mind-blowing. The ice cream refreshes you with the light aroma of basil. Juicy bursts of pineapple then sweeten up your mood before meringue rounds it all out with a salty touch.
INSIDER TIP
Chef Morten is one of the few farang chefs out there that we know of who is passionate about Thai cuisine (and he has a tattoo in Thai on his forearm that roughly translates to "mad about Thai food" to prove it). Although he doesn't give Thai food the traditional treatment like Australian chef David Thompson of Nahm, we think he honours it with creativity and modern techniques without taking it to the cutting-edge rocket-science level like he did at Sra Bua. His offerings are available as a la carte and in two sets — Aromatic Journey (B1,100 per person, plus B800 for wine pairing) and Benjarong Signature Tasting Journey (B1,700, plus B1,300 with wine). You can order from Benjarong and eat outside next to the waterfall if you want.
SOCIAL MEDIA MOMENTS
A picture of the big rib in green curry is definitely worth sharing (but may make someone envious of your eating fortune). The exquisite interior should also be commemorated through photos.
VALUE & VERDICT
This old restaurant has many new tricks up its chef's sleeve. At this kind of price point, a visit to Benjarong should be treated as a special occasion. But, if you're a fan of Thai restaurants with modern twists and earn an exec-level paycheck, we think Benjarong 2.0 won't disappoint. G
