Not so long ago, Thai cuisine was regarded in its home country as unfashionable, favoured only by the old and the outdated. But over the past few years, thanks to increased appreciation of Thai food among international gastronomists, the heritage has gained more recognition from a young generation of restaurateurs in Thailand. The result is the ubiquity of Thai eateries, located everywhere from five-star hotels to trendy shopping plazas.
Eat, this week's subject of review, is a fresh addition to Bangkok's Thai restaurant circle, although its management is not a new face in the industry — it also owns and runs Supanniga Eating Room, a two-year-old, much-loved Thai eatery on Soi Thong Lor.
Occupying a small corner space on the second floor of a semi-open-air arcade, the restaurant, which opened in June, is mainly flocked to by young office workers and international tourists.
The 60-seater incorporates the warmth of home, the sanctity of a Thai temple and the vitality of a local market — three places that have long been celebrated in Thai culture as havens for good food — into a somehow swanky yet casual dining room.
Though the restaurant possesses a contemporary look, its cuisine is downright authentic, prepared with prime local ingredients from what are reputably the best sources and eaten with rice in traditional, family-style fashion.
Eat's menu comprises almost 70 classic dishes from the north, east, south and Isan regions. But if that proves too difficult a decision, diners can simply stick to a collection of 10 recommended dishes, as I did on my visit to the restaurant a couple of weeks ago.
First to arrive was kai yok song (350 baht), which may quickly be translated as "brassiere egg". This best-selling dish, which has been given a theatrical name to describe its "lifted" shape, is actually kai jiew, fried in a deep pot instead of a wok and pepped up with jumbo crab meat, prawns, sweet basil, fresh chilli and shrimp paste.
I've always been against the idea of having kai jiew, a very basic dish anyone can cook at home, when eating out. But I have to admit that this well-rendered, souffle-like omelette, which exhibited a cushiony texture and distinctive flavourful taste, was one of the best I've ever had. I will undoubtedly order it again the next time I'm at Eat.
Equally praiseworthy was the phad khana pla insi khem foo (160 baht). This signature dish, a hybrid between pla duk foo (crispy yet fluffy fried catfish) and phad khana pla kem (stir-fried Chinese kale with salted fish), again proved Eat's capability to raise a common dish to an idealistic level.
The sauteed vegetable, which retained its bright green colour and crunchiness, came topped with a puffy billow of deep-fried, minced, salted fish. Yet, the laudable impression didn't lie on just the presentation. The crumbly texture of the fish also helped tone down its intense, salty taste, as it lent an ambrosial air to every bite.
Red curry buffs can't miss gaeng poo bai cha phlu (520 baht), or Southern-style red curry with crab meat and betel (cha phlu) leaves. Diners here are promised with generous portions of hefty lumps of cottony white crab meat, drenched in rich curry seethed by finely chopped betel, which lends the dish an aromatic and slightly bitter touch.
Another curry dish worth sampling is paneng with tender pork ribs (180 baht). In terms of taste, the Central Plain's paneng curry is sweeter and less fiery than its southern counterpart, so it's an ideal choice, even for the chilli-challenged. Eat's version featured slow-cooked pork ribs, which proved tender yet still yielded a pleasant chew, thoroughly bathed in rich curry and garnished with finely sliced kaffir lime leaves and dabs of coconut cream.
Thanks to Eat's daily supply of Ayutthaya line-caught freshwater prawns, keen Bangkok diners don't need to commute to the province should the craving strike.
The prawns, from the Chao Phraya, Pa Sak and Lop Buri rivers, are extra-large in size (they can be as big as a baby's arm) and are priced according to weight. With price tags ranging from 800 baht for a 350g prawn to 1,300 baht for a jumbo, 600g size, Bangkok's offering is not more expensive than what you would find in the countryside.
Diners can request how they want their prawn cooked, otherwise it would arrive medium-cooked with a beautiful, clingy, slightly translucent meat. If you have a sensitive stomach, however, ask for it well-done.
Our medium-cooked prawn boasted a supple texture and naturally sweet flavour enhanced by the rich and creamy cheese-like fat and red chilli seafood sauce.
The restaurant has a half-dozen dessert options. Try the bua loy, or taro and pumpkin pearls in warm coconut milk (70 baht), and the Thai tea panna cotta (85 baht).
The 60-seater incorporates the warmth of home, the sanctity of a Thai temple and the vitality of a local market into a swanky yet casual dining room.
Grilled line-caught river prawns from Ayutthaya.
