While fusing elements of Thai and other cuisines seem to be the norm of many restaurants these days (and there's nothing wrong with that), a new place called Yang Kao Kon chooses to stay faithful to recipes from the old days. This Thai restaurant is part of Frank & Release futsal field and has two levels. The indoor dining room on the first floor looks bland except for a few wooden cabinets filled with old stuff. There isn't much of a view through the tall windows unless you consider men kicking balls in a field to be a visual feast. The upper level offers outdoor dining with a view of the neighbours' roofs and antennae. You can tell from its look that Yang Kao Kon isn't the kind of place to go for a date (unless you two are on the 50th date) but should befit a low-key traditional meal. Their customers include futsal guys and white-collars in the area. Being a ma-and-pa place, their menu lists all dishes in Thai and without the accompaniment of saliva-inducing descriptions, but that doesn't mean their food is plain.
Yang Kao Kon
Thai
Frank & Release, Soi Supharat 1 (Phahon Yothin 8)
Wed-Mon 11:30am-10pm
081-875-9779, 081-930-5260
www.goo.gl/qRFTRx
THE MENU
Each bit of Salted pork crackling or kak moo roi kluea (B50) has a very thin crunchy layer and thick fat ready to explode in your mouth. Served with fresh veggies, Coconut milk relish with fermented pork or lon naem moh (B130) doesn't get old after a few spoonfuls. The smooth paste has bits of sourness from fermented pork hidden inside. Try young turmeric or fingerroot with the paste for a more piquant contrast. Stuffed banana pepper in curry or chuchee prik yuak yad sai (B70 per portion) impresses with flavoursome stuffing of minced pork and shrimp seasoned with sam klor (a Thai culinary term for white pepper, coriander root and garlic). Granny-recipe palo egg (B60 per single portion) does the good old trick with juicy chunks of pork with the fat layer intact and tasty hard-boiled eggs but the aromatic broth is too sweet. Jicama salad or yum mun kaew (B140) shows what an old hand the cook is at mixing different textures and flavours in order to produce delicious results. The list of ingredients is too long to break down here but jicama, white radish and cucumber offer plenty of crispness and freshness. Pineapple curry with roe of horseshoe crab or kaeng kua sapparod khai maengda (B280) should be very exotic for Bangkokians who are familiar with tobiko and caviar. The flavourful curry has slight smokiness to it and refreshing sweetness from pineapple. The maengda roe offers chewy pops of flavour.
INSIDER TIP
Ed Pirom, 66, is the owner of the place. He has never been formally trained as a cook but self-taught himself throughout his life. He ran a TV production company before opening Yang Kao Kon and wants to bring his late mother's recipes and others that he grew up with back to life. We think he does his family recipes justice. The space Yang Kao Kon now occupies previously belonged to Yakuzaaa Japanese restaurant.
SOCIAL MEDIA MOMENTS
Decor-wise, there aren't any real showpieces here. The dishes are presented without embellishment (well, except for carved cucumber) on plain white bowls and plates so you may need to be more creative with your captions and effects.
VALUE & VERDICT
Foodies who are looking for old Thai recipes at a reasonable price should definitely consider Yang Kao Kon. We think it's a good option in the Ari area for a quiet dinner with family and old friends whom you don't need to impress.
