December 2014 marked an exceptional milestone for Thailand's gastronomic scene as it's the first time the country's capital has enjoyed the high-profile presence of three Michelin-starred establishments.
Legendary chef Joel Robuchon at Bangkok's L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon.
Over the past decade, Bangkok has seen an impressive number of international culinary geniuses — head chefs of Europe's award-winning, top-end restaurants — relocating to this tropical metropolis.
During this time, the city has been a second home to some star-studded eateries, including one Michelin-starred Nahm Thai restaurant from London; Sra Bua Thai restaurant by Copenhagen's one Michelin-starred Restaurant Kiin Kiin; and the Netherlands' one Michelin star Savelberg restaurant from The Hague.
Nevertheless, up until 2014 to have a three-starred (the highest rank of the prestigious Michelin Guide) restaurant permanently stationed in Thailand seemed almost impossible. (Although there was Aziamendi, sister eatery of Spain's three Michelin-starred Azurmendi, which was quietly launched at upscale boutique hotel Iniala Beach House in Phuket at the end of 2013.)
It was just last month when Bangkok, too, finally got a chance to boast its own triple-starred permanent resident.
The phenomenon began with the opening of J'AIME by Jean Michel Lorain on Dec 1.
The 85-seat restaurant, which is located at the stunning U Sathorn Hotel in Soi Ngam Duplee, is the only branch-out joint of the Lorain family-run three Michelin-starred La Côte Saint Jacques restaurant in Burgundy, France.
And as Bangkok epicures — Francophiles and keen restaurant-goers alike — were thankful for Jean-Michel Lorain's star-embossed fare being offered near their own doorstep, another three Michelin-starred French eatery was officially launched in the middle of Bangkok's financial district just three weeks later.
It actually took quite a few years for L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon Bangkok to be conceived.
The innovatively-conceptualised restaurant is the brainchild of Joel Robuchon, now 70, one of the most highly-worshipped chefs in the world. Since 1981 he has cultivated and retained a total of 25 Michelin stars from his 22 dining establishments across the globe.
The Bangkok restaurant is the ninth L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon in the world.
Robuchon's culinary achievements started when the Poitiers-born chef launched his first restaurant, Jamin, in Paris.
The success was immense as it won its first star after three months, then all three Michelin stars in three years — a feat never seen before in gastronomy.
Later, he opened in 11 cities worldwide — Joel Robuchon Restaurant, Le Jardin de Joel Robuchon, La Table de Joel Robuchon, Robuchon a Galera and Salon de The de Joel Robuchon, etc.
Aged 50 and after winning countless awards and international recognition, he thought about his retirement when he saw snow for the first time in his life during a trip to a friend's restaurant on a mountain. He believed he had been working too hard.
Far from the pressure mill, he began travelling the world and regularly went to Japan to experience new products and culinary techniques. He became passionate about the Empire of the Rising Sun.
Upon discovering Japanese sushi bars and the jolly atmosphere of Spain's tapas bars, the dynamic concept of L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon was born in 2003. It was designed to offer high-quality cuisine in a spirit of conviviality, in which customers are able to interact with the chefs in a spirit of camaraderie.
L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon Bangkok, located at MahaNakhon CUBE, is the ninth outlet of the brand. It follows the strong success of previous ventures, including restaurants in Paris, Tokyo, New York, London, Las Vegas, Hong Kong, Singapore and Taipei.
I had the opportunity to talk with the world record-holding chef, who was very amiable and sweet, during the grand opening of his new "workplace" in Bangkok.
It was the fourth time the globe-trotting Robuchon has come to the Kingdom. His first two visits were two decades ago when he was an honourable guest chef for a gala dinner at the Mandarin Oriental's Le Normandie restaurant.
"I could hardly recognise Bangkok when I arrived this time. The city's growth is so amazing. Skyscrapers everywhere, it's like a completely new city," he said.
In 2011, prior to the settlement with Fourteen Points, Thailand's hospitality company and a licensee of L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon Bangkok, the legendary chef was approached by another investor to bring his Atelier to the City of Angels.
But after some discussion and thought he felt the location, which was quite far from the city centre, wasn't right.
"I don't open a restaurant in a place that I'm not confident with," he said.
However, he said from his four short visits to Bangkok, he really loved the city.
"As a hub for fine gastronomy, I have seen, since my last visit 14-15 years ago, a lot of potential and demand for top-end gourmet food in Bangkok," he said.
"And over the past 10 years we've been here in Asia, I've had a lot of customers from Thailand. These people come very often to my restaurants, especially in Hong Kong and Singapore. In fact, one of my best customers is a Thai lady. She often comes to my restaurants, in both Europe and Asia, with her family and friends.
"What is so special about Thailand is Thai people. They're so warm, so welcoming and easy to be with."
Since it first opened its doors two weeks ago, L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon Bangkok (see review on page 4) has been fully booked.
Offering exactly the same vibe as the branches in Hong Kong and Japan (each of which have garnered two stars), the black-and-red hued restaurant has a 32-seat dining counter highlight where Robuchon's ingenious cuisine is prepared in L'Atelier's distinctive style. To ensure high standards and maintain quality, Robuchon visits each of his restaurants four to five times yearly.
"I'm not doing this alone," he said. "I have a team of great chefs who travel the world with me to make sure that our restaurants are doing well. And I always use people I know very well and have worked for me for a long time to take care of each branch."
For the opening months of L'Atelier Bangkok, Robuchon said he prefers to present the dishes the chefs are able to immaculately execute.
"The team are very sure to keep the standards up," he said "Creating exclusive dishes for Bangkok is going to be the next step."
