The set-up: If you need proof as to why Bangkok is just as deserving of the “foodie capital” title as Hong Kong and Singapore, pay Il Fumo at visit. Powerhouse trio Choti Leenutaphong, Debby Tang and chef Luca Appino, responsible for Bottega’s nostalgic comfort and exceeding our cocktail expectations at Vesper, are now making us swoon over charcoal-grilled and dry-aged beef.
Il Fumo Italian
Mon-Sat, 6pm-1am
1098/2 Rama IV Road
www.ilfumo.co
02-286-8833
The restaurant has chosen to keep the original facade of a beautiful house dating back to the 1950s, in which descendants of King Rama IV resided. The interior, however, is all about subdued colours, and minimalistic, contemporary decor. Fitting, we thought, with the rather purist approach to cuisine, which is heavily focused on ingredients and cutting-edge techniques. There is a separate bar area, dimly lit, well-stocked and decked out in dark wood, reminiscent of treasured locales the likes of Bar Hemingway at The Ritz Paris and Dry Martini Bar in Barcelona.
The Menu
Think meats and cheeses from far-fetched corners of the world, food you longed for but have yet to try.
Starting with the antipasto, the Taleggio (B390) plays on the wonderful, aromatic combination of black truffles, charcoal-grilled taleggio cheese, honey and hazelnuts. It was an indulgent bite of utter bliss. The Dry cured prosciutto ca’ lumbago mora romagnola (B840/80grams) is absolutely fantastic. Sliced thinly, the intense aroma and savouriness is unmatched by any other peta negra or jamon we’ve ever eaten. With a deceptively simple presentation, our starter, Gambero rosso (B1,290) hits it out of the ballpark. A firm statement to remind diners that Il Fumo is predominantly an Italian restaurant — and takes its pasta
seriously. The Carabineros Spanish red prawns are delicately grilled to bring out the sweetness of their meat, and served with al dente tagliatelle and flavourful prawn bisque.
Another must is the Octopus (B420), which is charcoal-grilled and served with taggiasche olives and green beans. With a nice smoky crust and all the flavours locked in its tender meat, the dish is a tough competitor to its Spanish counterpart, pulpo a la gallego.
Without a doubt, the star of the show was our main course, the Rubia gallega (B490/100g). It only took us one bite to notice the intensity and depth of the flavours of the medium-rare strip loin, which is dry-aged for at least 20 days. Staying true to the restaurant’s ethos, the utmost respect is given to the dish, which is presented on simple black slate with a sprinkle of sea salt and cracked black pepper.
For dessert, Luca’s grandmother makes a tiramisu (B330) that might not be everyone’s cup of tea with its deconstructed look, although the fresh mascarpone, crunchy lady fingers and the hot coffee poured on top will certainly hit your sweet spot.
The extensive wine and cocktail list may have you browsing for a while, or you can let bar manager Pailin Sajjanit (a 2015 finalist in Thailand’s Diageo World Class bartender competition) recommend something to suit your taste buds. Sour but not too sweet, the Skye margarita (B480) is a mean Scottish twist on the classic Mexican drink. To accompany the strip loin, opt for the Mont Gras Merlot 2014, from Chile.
Gambero rosso.
Insider’s Tip
Two private rooms are available. Discerning Scotch drinkers should book the John Walker & Sons room, of which apparently there are only three in the world (the others being in Seoul and Shanghai), and sample Johnnie Walker’s super-premium range.
Dry cured prosciutto ca’ lumago mora romagnola.
Value & Verdict
As expected, prices here lean more toward the “special occasion” end of the scale. But all things considered — the polished ambience, refined drinks, faultless cuisine and top-notch service — Il Fumo strikes us as one of the most impressive restaurants in Bangkok to date.
From left: Luca’s grandmom makes a tiramisu; Skye margarita.
