There’s a Thai saying that all aspiring and professional musicians know very well: “If you ever need any musical instrument at all, you just need to go to Woeng Nakhon Kasem.”
That still remains true, albeit to a lesser extent, as most young musicians nowadays are just as likely to visit high-end shops around Bangkok for their preferred instrument. As a result, the once-famous name of Woeng Nakhon Kasem, the old music precinct in Bangkok’s Samphanthawong district, rings a little less — and could fade faster than anyone might expect in the near future.
The old architecture of Woeng Nakhon Kasem is under threat. Photos by Pawat Laopaisarntaksin and Kosol Nakachol
Also known simply as Woeng, the 14-rai plot was once an old Chinese market, famous for antiques and rare items. Over time, businesses crossed over and started selling hardware, electronics, machinery, textbooks, and, of course, musical instruments among other things.
In 2012, Woeng became a centre of media and public attention when its original landowner, the estate of the noble Paribatra family, announced the selling of Woeng to the Thai Charoen Corporation (TCC Group). Among the contenders who lost the bidding to the TCC Group was the Woeng community who had pooled resources in a bid to preserve their ancestral land.
Since then, the tenants of 440 units in Woeng have been living in fear of eviction. Their leases, set to terminate in September, could very well mean that the century-old shopping district remains only in history.
The land dispute at Woeng was thrust even more prominently into the spotlight following the death of Chatchawal Asavasopon, the owner of Yong Seng Musical shop, who was found drowned in the Chao Phraya River after disappearing near a pier just two weeks ago. Though Chatchawal’s family have stated that they believe his death was an accident, many suspect that the imminent eviction may have led to him committing suicide.
Under TCC’s development, local people say the area of Woeng is set to become a shopping arcade with parking spaces and a boutique hotel. The rent will then be increased to match the market price after the renovation, which tenants of the community will have to pay if they still want to continue renting the space, post-renovation.
Woeng Nakhon Kasem is home to the area’s century-old Chinese community.
“People who think of musical instruments still think of Woeng,” says Patsorn (name has been changed), who operates her family’s 80-year-old music store. “Every shop that I spoke with still wants to continue renting here. But whether we can or not, we will just have to wait and see.”
The designated commercial zone in post-renovated Woeng will not allow tenants to reside in the area. This poses yet another problem for Woeng’s current residents who have been living and conducting their businesses on-site for many generations — some coming close to a century.
“It is too cruel,” Patsorn said of the smaller commercial space and higher leasing fees TCC has planned for the community. She, like many in the area, believe that it is the community itself that helped make the neighbourhood what it is today.
The new owner has declined to comment over the development plans and renovation of Woeng, responding that there is currently no information available. This has led to rife speculation, with many locals fearing that no compensation will be offered to the community to help with relocating, which Patsorn sees as a necessity.
“People want to stay here because this is their home. It’s part of their history, but with the raising of the rent many will not be able to afford it, and probably won’t be able to stay. The owner needs to consider whether to help them or not.”
One of the many shops specialising in musical instruments.
Another immediate issue is not just concerning the disappearing community. Somsak Songthammakul, one of the tenants and representatives of the Woeng community, believes that removing the community from the area is close to destroying history itself.
“The Nakhon Kasem land was bestowed by King Rama V to Prince Paribatra Sukhumbhand to manage so that people can come and live in. From then, it has become one of the most popular places where Chinese immigrants set down their roots in Thailand,” Somsak said.
It is nothing less than the Chinese heritage and culture of the century-old neighbourhood that is currently at stake, Somsak believes, and so the community is still trying to find a way to preserve the families’ origins from being uprooted in the face of capitalism and gentrification. There have been talks of preservation, but that, Somsak pointed out, has to include both the original architecture and the community.
“Whatever the future development, the community should be at the heart of it. If the community can’t continue to live here, then the things we are trying to preserve — traditions and history among many things — would be incomplete,” said Somsak. “It is a legacy of this country that people in our generation should pass on to the next.”
The threat posed by mass commercialisation and capitalism at the expense of local culture does not affect Woeng alone. The Charoen Chai community near Chinatown, for example, are experiencing similar issues now that the Bangkok metro has expanded right to their doorstep.
“There are many communities like ours,” Somsak acknowledged. “There’s lots of buying and selling happening. Hands are changing. Soon, all these places will be developed into full-blown businesses. Anything traditional that used to be the way of life — those which are our country’s assets and legacy to society — will all disappear.”
With the eviction getting closer each day, Somsak and the community is effortlessly trying to preserve the area through negotiations with TCC and is hoping that luck will be on their side. It has sent a letter detailing concerns to TCC and is currently waiting for a reply.
“We are trying to find a way out of this together,” he said. “This is so that the community can live on, and the owner can live on as well. From then, we will walk together. It is like joining hands to write a new page in history.”
Yong Seng Musical, owned by the late Chatchawal Asavasopon.
