The three-wheeled tuk-tuk, along with temples, elephants and tom yum goong, is a top symbol of Thailand. Recognising the significance of this small, boxy vehicle to the country's cultural legacy, Thailand's contestant for the Miss Universe 2015 pageant -- 21-year-old Aniporn "Nat" Chalermburanawong -- took to the stage in Las Vegas last week wearing a tuk-tuk costume, a mix of experimental Thainess and extraterrestrial thingumajig. The dress, designed by Hirankrit Pattaraboriboonkul, won her the Best National Costume award from the international competition (see side story).
With the humble tuk-tuk on the world's most flamboyant stage, how are the real tuk-tuk drivers doing on the streets of Bangkok?
In our survey, tuk-tuk drivers from all around the city are thrilled to learn that the vehicle of their profession is now being seen by millions of people around the world as a symbol of the Kingdom. They all know about the pageant, and they react with pride and perhaps amusement at the hullabaloo surrounding the Miss Universe award.
"It's all my passengers have been talking to me about all day," said Sunthorn Padungsamai, a veteran tuk-tuk driver near Klong Toey market. "I'm extremely proud that the tuk-tuk is chosen to represent Thailand."
Despite the seemingly positive reaction from various people, however, many traditionally-inclined members of Thai society have taken to social media to express their dislike of the award-winning costume, with one man even vowing to eat a pile of canine faeces on video should the costume ever win the award.
Perhaps most significant among the costume's detractors is National Artist Suchart Sawadsri, who called the dress and the judges who awarded it "tasteless". In turn, some media criticised Suchart for being too cynical.
"I think the more important thing we should be caring about is the intention behind the costume," said Somporn Somsuk, a 45-year-old tuk-tuk driver in the Hua Lamphong area.
Udorn Burapha, Phaya Thai area.
"The way I see it, the person designing the costume just wanted to be innovative, which is not wrong. They had no intentions of neglecting or belittling traditional Thai culture. People who don't like what they see will find a way to rationalise their disagreements anyway." Somporn also hopes that the international exposure of tuk-tuks can help to lighten the shady reputation they have gained among tourists as being corrupt or even dangerous. He is quick to point out that there are good and bad tuk-tuk drivers, just like any other profession in the world.
"I can sympathise with tourists who have had bad experiences with tuk-tuks. I just hope that the Miss Universe costume can help clear the air a little for foreigners who may have had these experiences or heard them from other people they know."
The tuk-tuk is a motorised vehicle that replaced the old-fashioned trishaw in the 1950s. The model was imported from Japan, and adapted to fit Thai roads (the Indian tuk-tuk looks similar, though is smaller in size). In a decade, the vehicle grew in popularity and became a regular sight in the expanding streets of Bangkok. And soon, its oddball shape grew into an iconic symbol of the country.
Sunthorn Padungsamai, a driver from Klong Toey.
For foreign visitors, a Thai experience is never complete without a few rides on the half-open back of a tuk-tuk around the old city -- regardless of its exposure to the fumes and pollution.
Most tuk-tuk drivers around Bangkok rent their vehicles on a daily basis from various tuk-tuk garages around the city. The exact rental rates depend on the area, but generally sit anywhere from 300 to 400 baht per day.
Still, the decrease of interest among tourists and locals could prove troublesome for tuk-tuk drivers today. Amid Thailand's ailing economy, fewer people are out and about the streets going to markets or malls, which means fewer passengers for the tuk-tuks as well.
"I don't think any of us needs to be told why the economy is so bad," said Somporn, who has been forced to rely on calls from his regulars at the Samyan Market to pay the rent for his tuk-tuk.
Like the complaints we often hear about taxi drivers, tuk-tuk drivers are often criticised for reportedly refusing to pick up Thai passengers, since they prefer to drive foreign tourists, who they can bill for a large sum of money for a single city trip.
"I guess there are bound to be a few tuk-tuk drivers like that," said Udorn Burapha, a driver from the Phaya Thai area.
"For me though, I don't think any of us should pick and choose. There are hardly enough passengers for all of us as it is!"
Somporn Somsuk, who works the Hua Lamphong area.
