A television commercial of a skin whitening pill called SnowZ featuring a tagline "You need to be white to win" has sparked outrage especially on social media just recently.
Even though Seoul Secret -- the company that manufactures the pill which claims to contain glutathione, a type of antioxidant, and kiwi extract -- has taken responsibility by pulling the ad just a day after its release due to it being criticised as racist and ignorant, questions are still lingering over the concern as to why and how this sort of beauty product can always find its way into the Thai market despite the fact that many of them are not certified by Thailand's Food and Drug Administration (FDA).
President of the Dermatological Society of Thailand Assoc Prof Nopadon Noppakun said when it comes to the popularity of skin whitening products among Thai beauty enthusiasts, the highly valued pale complexion is mainly to blame.
"The association has been trying to raise public awareness regarding this issue for so many years," said Dr Nopadon. "We have organised several campaigns to send a message across and encourage Thai people to be proud of their skin colour. But despite the association's attempts, Thais still stick to the social value where they want to be white like Westerners."
According to Dr Nopadon, technically there are two approaches to use glutathione to whiten the skin. The first one is glutathione injection which lightens the skin by acting on the melanin, the primary determinant of skin colour. This, however, will take effect only when the substance is injected in a sufficiently large amount but will only render temporary effects. The second one is glutathione pills which still lack medical studies to back up its efficacy.
But these two mediums of using glutathione as a skin whitening agent, added the dermatologist, are just an off-label use, meaning both of them are not standard treatments widely prescribed by medical practitioners.
"According to available [medical] reports, glutathione has been used as part of palliative care only for some cases of cancer patients," he added.
Research from the Faculty of Medicine, Mahidol University also cited that glutathione injection is likely to cause the accumulation of the substance especially when it involves long-term use which might result in complications with the retina. Highly concentrated glutathione can also lead to low blood pressure, severe allergy, hallucination, breathing difficulties and can also be life-threatening. The injection can also cause infection if not carried out under proper hygienic standard.
As for glutathione pills, the research stated that they might not be as effective as claimed because the molecule of the substance is basically too large for the stomach and intestinal tracts to absorb.
Even though there are inadequate medical research and studies to support the effectiveness of glutathione as a skin whitening substance, one sure thing is that glutathione available on the general market cannot change skin colour, stressed Dr Nopadon.
"Skin whitening products make up a huge market in this country," the doctor commented. "Apart from glutathione, we see a lot of cosmetics that are designed to conceal [a person's unwanted] skin colour. These products usually contain zinc or arbutin but in a very small amount. Most of them are certified by the FDA but can only make you look whiter after applied. They, nonetheless, have no effect on the melanin."
Medical practices to whiten the skin are indeed available, said Dr Nopadon, which include the use of hydroquinone to bleach the skin. This, nonetheless, must be prescribed by medical specialists and would be used only when extremely necessary such as a treatment for vitiligo, a chronic skin condition characterised by portions of the skin losing their pigment. There is also laser skin lightening which is considered one of the ways to treat dark skin.
"But medically speaking, these said treatments only yield unpredictable results," Dr Nopadon said.
Apart from ongoing efforts by the Dermatological Society of Thailand to tackle this social value towards white skin among Thais, Dr Nopadon said that the FDA has also been trying to monitor and control the sale of these uncertified products which are so abundant and become so easily accessible for a number of consumers who have no knowledge that this merchandise cannot do wonders on their skin tone.
"Almost every day the FDA and authorities stop the illegal sale of these unapproved skin whitening products," he said. "But the point is they are so widespread that I think ongoing attempts and action are desperately required to handle this issue in the long run."
"In this country, if you don't see these skin whitening products at any given flea market, then I think it's strange."
As the president of the Dermatological Society of Thailand whose responsibility is to educate Thai people about the danger of illegal skin whitening, he wishes that people's perception and value towards white skin complexion could be changed and that they see the benefits of their own skin colour.
"Dark skin has several boons in itself," he said. "People with dark skin are less likely at risk of suffering from skin cancer. Dark-coloured pigment also acts as a shield against damage from ultraviolet radiation. It also takes more time for people with dark skin to have lines and wrinkles when compared to those with lighter skin. These are important facts that people need to know and understand."
"And even though there are certain techniques to whiten the skin, they have not yet been clinically proven as safe. And therefore if you decide to opt for those treatments, they definitely have a price to pay."
