Eight years ago, the release of Air Cushion didn't outsmart Nike's running sneakers, but it did become the cosmetic industry's next big thing to be conceived in South Korea. Now it's sweeping across the globe, as Western brands have jumped on the cushion-compact bandwagon.
What took them so long to catch up on this convenient make-up dispenser was that beforehand they had worked on other me-too products: the BB and CC Creams, as well as sleeping masks already popularised by K-Beauty.
The Air Cushion foundation was introduced by Iope, one of the beauty brands under cosmetic giant AmorePacific, whose sister labels later offered the compact mirrors with make-up oozing from a sponge.
Other South Korean companies then drove the cushion craze, with Western brands now freaking out to reinvent their complexion make-up in this portable packaging.
Launched this month, cushion compacts include those from Bobbi Brown, Dior, Estee Lauder, Givenchy, and an upgraded version from Lancome. Beauty retailer Sephora also has its own version, Wonderful Cushion.
What's so wonderful about dispensing make-up with a sponge?
AmorePacific researcher, Kyungho Choi and his team tested 200 different types, ranging from latex used in beddings to bath sponges, before concluding that a special urethane foam with 800,000 pores proved to be the most durable material for containing and discharging liquid make-up.
This ensured the freshness of the foundation when tapped on the skin using the three-layer Air Cell puff, which claims to offer a cooling effect by reducing skin temperature.
Iope Air Cushion was only sold in South Korea, whereas Laneige BB Cushion from the same company has been introducing this product to other countries since 2012, while customising the hybrid skincare/make-up to meet specific skin concerns.
Choi expected his innovation to be a big global beauty trend, not only for delivering foundation and BB and CC creams but also blush, concealer and other types of cosmetics.
Although the cushion tends to keep make-up fresh, it does have its critics, who are concerned about the build-up of bacteria on the sponge even though it is housed in the compact's inner compartment. In addition, the puff kept in the closed compact also has a sanitary setback.
Cushion foundations have become a mainstream product because they shorten the make-up routine; because of the convenience in doing touch-ups during the day; and because the versatile formula offers skincare benefits.
French brand Lancome was probably the first to jump on board last year. The 2016 upgrade features Cushion Polar technology developed to achieve a higher coverage through a reinvented sponge cushion made up of interwoven fibres and covered in mesh.
Givenchy claims a new-generation compact featuring a metal plaque to protect the formula from air while delivering the right amount of fluid foundation.
Inspired by Nespresso's coffee capsules, capsule technology and airtight packaging preserve the freshness of Bobbi Brown's hydrating liquid foundation.
The competition may be less about redesigning the cushion compact, as some brands collaborate with AmorePacific for the packaging. The difference then lies in the soaked make-up containing more skincare ingredients and technologies, such as Lancome's Jel-liquid that liquefies the formula for easier dispensing and Givenchy light-reflecting Blur & Glow to boost skin-radiance.
Other brands planning to launch this beauty must-have include YSL Beaute next month and MAC in July.
