The free-fall in rice prices has sent an economic and political jolt across the country, and in the process highlighted how "thinking small" and modest-scale farming just might hold the key to the survival of farmers.
The depressed rice prices, coupled with a growing demand for organic farm products, are driving the chemical-free rice sector and earning these growers more income.
Capitalising on the "you are what you eat" trend, villagers in Ban Dok Bua, a small community in the northern province of Phayao have switched to chemical-free rice to make a living in accordance with King Bhumibol Adulyadej's sufficiency philosophy.
Thailand has for years been ranked as one of the world's largest rice exporters, with hom mali, the aromatic fine grain rice, renowned as a major food staple for Thais and popular with people in many parts of the world.
Ban Boonkam: Attention to detail in product manufacturing and labelling crucial.
At Ban Dok Bua in tambon Ban Tun of Muang district, village chief Ban Boonkam relates how the organic rice-farming concept was initiated in 1989 after many farmers had fallen ill and subsequently required hospital treatment from prolonged exposure to chemicals.
To solve the problem at its root cause, the villagers decided to work together to embark on a chemical-free agricultural approach with natural fertiliser easily produced through practice honed by local wisdom.
Mr Ban said the organic rice was mainly grown for household consumption first and later promoted to village and then provincial supply.
He said the organic rice produced by Ban Dok Bua is categorised into four types: hom mali jasmine rice, brown rice, "rice berry" and glutinous rice, with prices varying according to demand and manufacturing processes.
"After consuming the organic rice for a while, the villagers' health gradually improved because they were eating produce that came from non-chemical farming," Mr Ban said.
Rice stocks are kept for consumption by families first, and any surplus is then sold to generate extra income.
"When it comes to trade, we have to pay attention to every step of the manufacturing process. Package design must be modern with nutritional values and a reliable source of production clearly labelled," Mr Ban said.
Now in a position to jump on the organic bandwagon, Ban Dok Bua became an organic rice supplier in 2007. Its brand, called "Ban Dok Bua Organic Rice", debuted in the health food market in 2013.
At least 2,000 kilogrammes of Ban Dok Bua rice are sold monthly to retail and wholesale traders in the province and beyond, generating income of more than 120,000 baht a month for the growers. Of that, about 1,000kg a month is ordered by Doi Tung Royal Villa in Chiang Rai province.
Aisoon Changkaew: Turning to organically grown, non-chemical rice rich in nutrition.
Mr Ban said the Ban Dok Bua organic rice group comprises 149 members. Of them, 68 are permanent members.
Thanks to chemical-free rice farming, the Ban Dok Bua rice producing community won the prestigious Sustainable Community King's Cup award two years in row in 2010 and 2011, Mr Ban said.
He said the community's marketing and sales strategies are as comprehensive as possible. The growers work closely with local state agencies and the public and private sectors to distribute supplies to many areas.
"Also, we have been supported by the Upper Northern Provincial Cluster 2 consisting of Chiang Rai, Phayao, Phrae and Nan provinces. Our organic products are also available online," Mr Ban said.
Another model for sufficiency-based farming in Muang district is the Happy Rice Community enterprise group in tambon Ban Tam of the same district.
The enterprise was registered as Happy Rice Limited Partnership in 2014 and serves as a principle supplier of khao kum (also known as khao luem phua) in the province.
"The tale of 'khao luem phua' (husband forgetting the rice) that we grow here is that a couple were having meal together and the wife ate all the khao luem phua because it is so tasty. She did not share it with her husband," Aisoon Changkaew, the 36-year-old proprietor of the company, said.
Back in 2007, Mr Aisoon started organic farming by planting the hom mali 105 rice on his six-rai paddy field that he had inherited from his ancestors. It was intended only for his consumption.
"My parents were rice farmers. Therefore, my elder sister and I thought it would be great if we inherited their rice farm and did our best for the career we love," he said.
In 2010, his sister sold unmilled aromatic rice harvested from their farm for about 12-15 baht per kilo and white rice for 50 baht per kilo.
After having grown the hom mali 105 for a couple of years, a friend brought him a dark purple rice strain called khao luem phua which is grown in the northern mountains.
Aside from its unique and delectable taste, Mr Aisoon found the rice was nutritionally rich and would appeal to health-conscious consumers.
The many varieties of rice grown minus the chemicals are produced and marketed in Ban Dok Bua in tambon Ban Tun of Muang district of Phayao. Photos by Saiarun Pinaduang
He searched the internet and found that purple rice was packed with antioxidants and vitamins to help activate anti-aging genes in the human body and lower the risk of cancer, heart disease, Alzheimer's and diabetes.
Because of this rich nutrition, Mr Aisoon decided to replace all of the hom mali 105 rice he grew with khao luem phua.
The purple rice was soon in high demand, and that led to the Happy Rice company being formed to streamline production and distribution.
"Not many people here grow khao luem phua, and so orders for my rice went up. Our farm makes about 30,000-40,000 baht a year after deducting all expenses," he said.
Mr Aisoon said every farming step needs care and attention, from selecting the rice strain, cultivating it and then harvesting the crop. He bought, with the encouragement of his wife, a small rice milling machine to dehusk the rice produced on his farm and to lessen his reliance on millers.
However, selecting the best khao luem phua strain to plant is a science that requires expertise. The University of Phayao and the Rice Department stepped in to help him pick the rice strain best suited for the climate and give him the highest yield.
Today, Happy Rice produces chemical-free khao luem phua for home consumption and commercial purposes. The harvest relies on manual labour, not mechanical harvesters, which helps tighten community relations.
To reach out to the broader group of consumers, Mr Aisoon uses khao luem phua as a primary material to produce health products such as snacks and khao kam tea, which is derived from dried purple rice blended with dried pandan (baitoey) leaves.
Mr Aisoon said he did not intend to expand his rice market or take in more members as he wants to deal only with people who have a true passion for rice farming.
With 33 members, the enterprise has managed to branch out and begun growing other rice varieties over the year, including hom mali and daeng doi.
Mr Aisoon said he purchases rice grown by members at a fixed price of 15 baht per kilo. The yield is then packed and put on store shelves.
"Some members make almost 100,000 baht a year from the rice because of the market demand for healthful rice.
"For indebted members, I tell them they can work off their debts quickly if they are hard-working, patient, frugal and know how to manage their income properly," he said.
Mr Aisoon stressed he always gives priority to chemical-free products. Any member who sprays their fields with chemical substances or pesticides is banned from the enterprise.
Mr Aisoon will not stop at organic rice farming. He plans to produce natural compost to save on the farming costs as well.