The old shophouses have been demolished, leaving behind piles of rubble in the area where the building of Wat Mangkon Kamalawat underground station has begun.
DUE FOR THE CHOP: The barren view through the window of one shophouse scheduled for demolition to help accommodate the expansion of the MRT
According to the plans for the extension of the MRT's blue line, more shophouses will be torn down soon to pave the way for a property development scheme.
''People who do not know about the construction work come here looking for shops selling traditional Chinese wedding clothes and utensils,'' said one vendor in the area. The demolished shophouses in the Pleang Nam community had sold these goods for decades.
The new station will be built in the area from Charoen Krung Soi 16 to the Plaeng Nam intersection on Charoen Krung Road, and is part of the MRT's blue line extension scheme to link Bang Sue to Tha Phra, and Hua Lamphong to Bang Khae.
Three old communities _ the Charoen Chai neighbourhood on one side of Charoen Krung Road, and another two, the Pleang Nam community and Krom Putares market on the other side of the road _ are affected by the project and associated property development schemes.
The two landlords in the area _ the Chumphot-Pantip Foundation and the Crown Property Bureau _ stopped issuing long-term leases to their tenants in all three neighbourhoods.
SPEAKING OUT: Chatchai Termteerapot, another tenant and member of the conservation group.
According to Chatchai Termteerapot, a tenant and a member of the Charoen Chai Conservation and Rehabilitation Group, in 2007 the Chumphot-Pantip Foundation, which owns a 8,000 square metre plot in the Charoen Chai community started shortening leases from three years to two years, then to one year and eventually to one month.
''This means that tenants have to leave whenever the landlord wants,'' he said. When the two landlords established a joint company, the Chinatown Community Development Co Ltd (CCD), the communities realised that their traditional way of life was threatened by the development projects.
In late 2010, Charoen Chai residents formed a conservation group in an attempt to preserve their traditional way of life and businesses inherited from their parents and grandparents.
The other two affected communities, however, took little action. As a result, the old shophouses were demolished to make way for Wat Mangkon Kamalawat station. And stall-holders at Krom Putares market and residents of its five-storey residential block are also facing eviction. The market is well-known in Yaowarat, as is the residential block where in the past migrant Chinese rented rooms.
Meanwhile, the Charoen Chai community, a small neighbourhood of some 200 Western-style shophouses built during the reign of King Rama V, almost 100 years ago, known for joss paper, or spirit money, is also under threat.
''People in this community inherited joss paper businesses from their families. Some of them are in the third or fourth generation of their families,'' Mr Chatchai said.
''About 80% of the joss paper, paper lanterns and other paper products used during the Chinese vegetarian festival in Phuket and other places are from our community. And the community is the major supplier of joss paper and paper products used for other Chinese festivals and funerals as well,'' he added.
BURYING THE PAST: Old shophouses are being demolished to make way for new commercial developments.
With the distinctive architecture, unique businesses and traditions as well as the area's ethnic diversity, residents argue that the community is part of the cultural fabric of the city. ''Even though we're tenants, we live here and we love our communities. Moreover, it is part of our national heritage that should be preserved,'' Mr Chatchai said.
The conservation group requested that the Fine Arts Department inspect the buildings. If they are deemed historic sites, the buildings will escape demolition.
According to Tharapong Srisuchart, director of the Archaeology Bureau, there are 220 shophouses in the Charoen Chai community. Among them are 70 shophouses built before 1907. Those that have not been altered can be registered as historic sites.
But Mr Chatchai said there had been little progress made towards registration since the inspections were carried out a little over two months ago.
While ignoring the remaining historic communities, the CCD has started the Sam Yod Gate project, recreating the original gate that was demolished almost 100 years ago to make way for Charoen Krung Road.
''Why build a new gate in imitation of the original which has not existed for a long, long time? Why not preserve the remaining historic buildings and the traditional way of life in the area instead?'' asked Sirinee Urunanone, a tenant and a member of the Charoen Chai conservation group.
OVERREACTION?
Beside the ongoing construction of the underground extension, neither the land owners nor the local authorities have divulged their future plans for the area.
''Outsiders may question whether we have overreacted, but the answer is a definitely 'no,''' said Ms Sirinee, adding that the land owners have planned for some time to redevelop these areas.
In 2009, plans for an 18-storey building in the area were drawn up by an architectural company. Under present municipal regulations, buildings in areas close to temples must not exceed 37m, or approximately 12 storeys. However, with permission to build within a 500m radius of the station entrances, the development of such large-scale structures can go ahead.
COLD COMFORT: MRT officials talking to vendors affected by the construction of the new station.
The conservation group recently discovered plans drawn up by the same architecture company to connect both land plots through underground tunnels at the new station.
The Yaowarat area is designated as a commercial area by the BMA, but ''under such circumstances, the old communities in this area will not survive.'' Ms Sirinee said.
With support from academics and other conservation groups, the group submitted a petition to the BMA to designate the area a conservation zone.
On Dec 2, the BMA responded negatively to the request, but negotiations continue.
A small museum chronicling the Charoen Chai community was opened last year in an old small shophouse in the middle of the community. Residents opened the facility to publicise the area's history.
In March, the community refused to vacate the shophouse following a request by the Chumphot-Pantip Foundation.
''This was the first time that the foundation's representatives met and discussed the matter with us,'' said Ms Sirinee.
After discussions, the foundation allowed the museum to remain. In addition, the foundation welcomed any suggestions and proposals from the community. In response to the foundation, the group, following discussions with people in the community, came up with five proposals.
''We want five-year leases, a maximum annual 10% rent increase, sharing costs between the landlord and the tenants on improvements to the houses and an acknowledgement of Charoen Chai as an official community.
''Despite living here for many generations, we are not considered a community that is eligible for government services. For example, improvements of the roads, pavements or drains cannot be done without approval from the land owners. Why? We live here and we pay taxes like other people, so we should get the same services,'' she said.
In fact many tenants have spent their own money on simple work such as painting or cleaning to improve their shophouses and the surrounding environment. However, they cannot make structural alterations.
''If the tenants are certain that they will be allowed to carry on living in their community, they are more than willing to spend money on improving the buildings,'' Ms Sirinee insisted.
They will submit this proposal to the foundation. ''We hope for the opportunity for discussion and negotiation to find a way forward,'' she said, adding that it is in everyone's interest to protect the country's national heritage.
Somsak Wongthammakul, who lives in Woeng Nakhon Kasem, another community close to Chinatown threatened by development, said that the problem is too large and complicated for the community to handle alone, and they are trying a new approach.
The 2.25 hectare Woeng Nakhon Kasem plot was sold to business tycoon Charoen Siriwattanapakdi for five billion baht earlier this year. Before the deal was completed, tenants were already getting involved.
''We are negotiating with the company over how the area will be developed and how the present tenants will be affected,'' said Mr Somsak.
THE COUNTDOWN TO DEMOLITION
November, 2010: The Charoen Chai community formed the Charoen Chai Conservation and Rehabilitation Group in an attempt to preserve their traditional neighbourhood.
September, 2011: The Charoen Chai conservation group submitted letters to the Fine Arts Department and the Association of Siamese Architects, requesting an inspection and evaluation of the old shophouses in the community.
September, 2011: A small museum was established in the Charoen Chai neighbourhood to display the history of the community.
March, 2012: The Chumphot-Pantip Foundation demanded the group leave the shophouse where the museum is located. However, it later agreed the museum could remain open following a protest by locals.
May, 2012: The group submitted a petition to the National Human Rights Commission on plans that threaten old historic areas.
August, 2012: The group submitted a letter to the BMA, objecting to the designation of Chinatown as a commercial area.
October, 2012: Groups supporting the conservation of old communities asked Bangkok Governor Sukhumbhand Paripatra to conserve old communities near the Rattanakosin Island conservation area.
November, 2012: The National Human Rights Commission organised a fact-finding meeting with community representatives, government officials and academics.
December, 2012: The BMA turned down a request to review city zoning plans. The Yaowarat area remains a commercial zone, allowing large-scale building projects.
GOING UNDER: The site of the new Wat Mangkon Kamalawat underground station.
MARCH OF TIME: Several shophouse owners near the site of the Wat Mangkon Kamalawat station have already moved their businesses to other areas.