Beyond the Buddha
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Beyond the Buddha

Photographer Kamthorn Paowattanasuk explores the evolving art and architecture of Thai temples in 'Holy Land'

ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT
Beyond the Buddha
Photographer Kamthorn Paowattanasuk at his solo exhibition 'Holy Land'.

As a traveller and photographer, Kamthorn Paowattanasuk enjoys visiting temples. While most people like to take photos at famous spots or with well-known sculptures, Kamthorn is interested in temple structures repaired using substitute materials. For example, what used to be a sermon hall made from wood was replaced with cement because wood is too expensive. In another temple, wooden handrails in an ordination hall and the temple gates were replaced with alloy.

"Local repairmen choose materials they consider beautiful, and the results are different from typical construction. When I was a child, there was no construction like this," Kamthorn said.

Kamthorn photographed unusual structures in temples in several provinces near Bangkok and displayed them at his 2008 solo photo exhibition "Holy Alloy – Pearly Gates". In 2012, the photographer held another exhibition, "Disco Buddha", which displayed photos of 18 celebrated monk sculptures made by craftsmen. Though some sculptures do not resemble monks, they were all painted with gold to make them look valuable.

"These sculptures did not look exactly like the monks they were meant to represent and some were only identifiable by their tags. I studied art, so I can tell that the proportions were distorted. However, I found the sculptures beautiful since craftsmen built them with faith," said Kamthorn.

After "Disco Buddha", Kamthorn couldn't find intriguing sculptures or construction in temples, so he stopped photographing for years. He returned to it again in 2019 when he observed artistic objects with Google Earth.

A Torii Gate in Wat Udom Mongkol in Chachoengsao.

"Searching on Google Earth allows me to travel to other places," Kamthorn said. "I started by searching for Wat Phai Rong Wua in Suphan Buri, a temple I used to visit. Then, I checked out its neighbouring temple, Wat Tha Chedi, and discovered structures which resemble the Eiffel Tower in Paris, Big Ben in London, a Dutch windmill in the Netherlands and the Merlion in Singapore."

Inspired by this discovery, Kamthorn searched for a list of temples in nearby provinces. Using Google Earth, he marked interesting ones and then decided to visit them. Visiting temples exposed Kamthorn to current trends in Thai temple architecture, particularly the popularity of white ordination halls. This trend is likely inspired by the famous white temple, Wat Rong Khun in Chiang Rai.

"Ten years ago, there were also no Ai Khai statues, which are believed to be the spirit of a boy with the power to grant people wishes. Currently, almost all temples have egg boy statues. Another popular statue is Thao Wessuwan, the ghost king. An upcoming trend is the inclusion of a naga statue. Wat Maniwong in Nakhon Nayok has also built a spectacular naga cave," he explained.

On display at Kathmandu Photo Gallery, his current exhibition "Holy Land" displays unusual or artistic objects in temples. Some photos depict sculptures which are relevant to Buddhism but have never been seen before, including Little Buddha statues. Viewers may also be surprised to find odd objects in Thai temples such as a Torii Gate, a traditional Japanese structure, or a Maneki-neko, or Japanese beckoning cat, and the Atomium, a landmark modernist building in Belgium.

A dinosaur sculpture in Wat Tam Ru, Samut Prakan.

Kamthorn explained further why he named the exhibition "Holy Land".

"During my time as an ordained monk, I participated in morning and evening prayer sessions. The evening chants included the Assembly of Devas. Every month, monks must recite Patimokkha. If any monk had an amulet that had not yet been consecrated, it could be placed in a tray during the recitation of the Patimokkha. After the Patimokkha session, that amulet would be considered a sacred item. These rituals occur every day and every month, leading me to believe that everything in the temple is sacred, even dinosaurs or Doraemon figures," Kamthorn explained.

Akkara Naktamna, the exhibition curator, explained that "Holy Land" reflects the commercialisation of Buddhism in Thai temples.

"Kamthorn's photos clearly convey his message with a humorous touch. He uses striking and eye-catching colours that make objects pop out, which evoke thoughts on merit and sin, truth and falsehood."

Wat Khao Din in Suphan Buri is a temple which uses a unique Japanese theme to attract visitors. This creative idea works well since many photos of the temple have been posted on social media which has attracted an increasing number of tourists.

A Teddy bear and Maneki-neko at Wat Maisupradittharam in Nakhon Pathom.

"The temple, which combines Thai and Japanese art, has a Japanese name, Maneki-neko Land. A giant Japanese beckoning cat welcomes visitors in a corner. Visitors walk along steps decorated with naga handrails under the Torii Gate to reach a pagoda. A Sakura Garden and Japanese manga murals can be found at that temple. Unlike other temples which play Buddhist chants, this temple plays Japanese songs. I had fun touring this temple which incorporates new concepts. During my visit, there were many tourists, including a group of students."

When asked why he has a passion for photographing artistic objects in temples, Kamthorn replied that every era -- Sukhothai and Ayutthaya -- had its own Buddhist statues. He is curious to know what kind of Buddhist statues will be considered classics of the Rattanakosin period.

"When I studied Thai art history, I learned that Pang Leela, the walking posture of Buddha, is a classic statue of the Sukhothai period. For the early Ayutthaya period, the square-faced Buddha statue is prominent. Currently, Buddha statues look different from the past. At Wat Sangkajaithera in Suphan Buri, there are several Buddha statues in different metallic colours. I was excited to see how Buddha statues have changed forms and styles over time. The answer to what a classical statue in the Rattanakosin period will be like has to be provided by people in the future."

Little Buddha at Wat Phraya Suren, Bangkok. Kamthorn Paowattanasuk

Although things in temples have changed to attract visitors, Kamthorn believes that temples are still sanctuaries for people in the community.

"When I visited a temple in Samut Prakan, I saw the abbot speak to a leader of the community about publishing dhamma books. I believe that as long as people encounter difficult times, they still need a temple as their spiritual guidance and support," he said.

Kamthorn hopes that his exhibition will inspire people to visit temples.

"It would be nice if my work encourages people to visit temples and make merit. Photographing artistic objects in temples is my hobby, so I will continue to photograph as long as temples continue to change. While artistic objects in temples have changed, monks today still talk about the mind in the same way that monks did over 2,000 years ago," he concluded.

"Holy Land" runs at Kathmandu Photo Gallery, 87 Pan Road, until May 11. Admission is free. The gallery opens on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. For more information, visit facebook.com/kathmanduphotogallery and instagram.com/kamthorn1970.

A replica of the Atomium in Belgium at Wat Tha Chedi, Suphan Buri. (Photos: Kamthorn Paowattanasuk)

A nariphon tree at Wat Namtok Thammarot, Rayong.

Wat Tippawas, Bangkok.

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