Besides its role as a haven of antique shops, the strip on Charoen Krung Road around the General Post Office was once a locale of leading contemporary art galleries.
But after the rise of Sukhumvit and Chatuchak weekend market as new, bustling centres for the art and antique trade, the old and established venues around the former downtown began to close their doors.
Ironically, because of the declining real estate value of the district _ close to Silom but not in the midst of the financial hot spots _ a series of art galleries have returned to grace the vicinity, which still hosts high end hotels.
Apart from those who supported the arts for years, such as Kathmandu Photo Gallery on Pan Road and Silom Galleria near Mahesak, relatively new venues like Serindia Gallery have made a name by putting on arty photo exhibitions, and ATTA Gallery has championed idiosyncratic metal jewellery.
The latter two are in Charoen Krung Krung 36, practically next door to the Mandarin Oriental, and they have helped rejuvenate the spirit of art in the area.
Of the various sois in this once international neighbourhood, Charoen Krung Soi 30 is a hidden gem. Also known as Soi Captain Bush, this historical lane has the Portuguese embassy, snug by the river, as its epicentre, and nearby there's a potpourri of chic cafes, fusion eateries, refined antique outlets and at least one offbeat furniture shop.
But what stands out is a place called Warp 54: a large, high-ceilinged warehouse transformed into a private art studio that welcomes visitors for free viewings, as well as purchasing of course.
From the top of the soi, it may require some effort to locate Warp 54 since only a few signs are posted near the main road. But once you're in the soi, the place's wooden architectural structure, originally built around the 1940s by a Japanese merchant, is a major magnet to passers-by, beckoning you to take a look or enter.
This kind of experience is reminiscent of a fondly-remembered weekend hunting for small artists' studios in Manhattan's Chelsea, or Williamsburg in Brooklyn.
Once inside the 300m2 space, viewers will be astonished by a set of neon light bars in red that spell ''WARP'' _ like a phosphorescent baptism.
Scattered around the walls are over two dozen large canvases. Almost all of them share similar motifs: bright hues, high-contrast colouring and figurative human figures. They come from the same artist: Christian Develter, a 44-year Belgian who has been infatuated with Bangkok and Thailand for over 10 years. His private work zone is hidden in the back of the site.
''I want my place to be an open private studio, not a private gallery. This idea is a little bit unusual for the Bangkok art scene,'' explains Christian.
''I welcome other artistic activities if they fit with the venue's policy. In the past we have hosted a book sale, a dance concert and even a sculpture show.''
Peter Smits, the studio manager and fellow Belgian, added: ''The whole space had a huge facelift and a clean-up was done. The current owner allows Christian and I a rental lease. We hope that it helps preserve and revitalise the building and the adjacent area.''
After two years, the venue is now financially viable, though times were tough during the floods last year.
Fortunately, despite being so close to the Chao Phraya River, the building was not damaged by water. But very few visitors came to the door.
According to Smits, there are two major groups of visitors. First are those with a concrete plan who know where they are going and for what. Second are those accidentally passing by, who actually make up the larger portion of visitors. Charoen Krung Road may be known as a hub for tourists with cursory interest, but Warp 54 seems to add to the artistic atmosphere in a continuing revival of this charming area.
Warp 54 opens all year round, but it is recommended to have an appointment in advance for certain visits. Please visit www.warp54.com or www.christiandevelter.com for more details.
