For men, the king of herbs is a natural Viagra. For women, it's a potent skin-revitaliser to help keep wrinkles at bay.
Research on the resilient vitality of ginseng constitutes the science of "Ginsenomics", the term coined by South Korea's cosmetic powerhouse Amorepacific.
This year marks the 50th anniversary of the science as well as the introduction of the company's first ABC ginseng cream in 1966.
The research on Panax ginseng was initiated by the company's late founder Suh Sung-whan, who grew up in Gaesung, a prime growing area and trade centre of Korean ginseng prized for its superior energising and stimulating benefits.
The 50-Year Ginseng Research Exhibition at the Shilla Hotel, in Seoul. Photos courtesy of Sulwhasoo
"Ginseng has been used as a panacea for centuries in Asia. We drink it as a health tonic to activate the immune system, to promote overall well-being and longevity. The challenge was to transfer its healing properties to increasing skin energy and vitality," said Kang Byeong-yeong, director of the Skincare Research Institute, Amorepacific R&D Centre.
Held in Seoul late July and in Bangkok last week at Central Embassy, the 50th anniversary celebrations also showcased the fourth-generation Concentrated Ginseng Renewing Cream EX marketed by Sulwhasoo, a luxury herbal cosmetic brand under Amorepacific. Introduced in 2000, Sulwhasoo's original cream contained ginseng root extract as the key ingredient. Reformulations were based on the knowledge gained from Ginsenomics, which examined not only the human-resembling roots but the entire plant in order to identify and extract skincare ingredients from leaves, flowers and fruits.
Equally important, the research encompassed the improvement of organic cultivation, processing methods and delivery systems to obtain and enhance the efficacy of ginseng-derived ingredients, such as saponin from roots, leaves and flowers.
"After orally consuming ginseng, saponin is converted to active ingredients through interaction with digestive enzymes. This doesn't happen when ginseng is applied to the skin due to the absence of the enzymes," said Kang. "However, advanced bio-science and nano technologies allowed us to develop a processing bio-conversion technology to convert ginseng saponin into active ingredients and deliver the anti-ageing Compound K to the skin."
In the fourth-generation ginseng cream, the delivery of the active ingredient is optimised by an advanced capsule technology. In addition, its performance is boosted by Ginsenoside Re derived from ginseng flower.
"When ginseng flowers bloom, all of its nutrition and energy are concentrated at the flower before fruiting. Ginsenoside Re transfers this vitality to strengthen the skin barrier in counteracting external aggressors and irritants," Kang explained.
The R&D was additionally driven by the Inflammaging theory which associates underlying inflammation with diseases and the ageing process, including that which shows on the skin.
"When wrinkles appear, it doesn't happen overnight but it can be a result of accumulative inflammation," he explained.
"Due to ageing, a weakening skin regeneration and defence system further makes it easier for external aggressors to cause inflammation. This is why fortifying the skin barrier was a focus in developing the new ginseng cream."
The efficacy of the upgraded formula was measured by the improvement of "Ageing Indicators" comprised of 18 points in five facial areas susceptible to signs of ageing due to repeated facial expressions and loss of skin elasticity.
"When people look in the mirror, it's not only about what they see but also how they feel. We have expanded the scope of research by applying cognitive and neuroscientific methods to assess the efficacy of the cream in improving the Ageing Indicators and the effect on self-image," he said.
Product application techniques have been designed to relieve tension in face-defining Ageing Indicators, such as on the forehead, between brows and nasolabial folds while enhancing absorption of the Concentrated Ginseng Renewing Cream EX, whose fresh scent recalls ginseng flowers.
The sensorial experience is also enhanced by the product texture, of which a gel-type cream is a refreshing variant besides the original rich formula.
Right Kang Byeong-yeong, director of the Skincare Research Institute, Amorepacific R&D Centre. Sulwhasoo
Above Harudee Vorapongpisut, general manager of Sulwhasoo, and Woong Choi, managing director of Amorepacific Thailand, presenting the new formulas at the 50th anniversary event at Central Embassy. Sulwhasoo
