Tradition meets modern

Situated at the top of the strikingly-designed Siam@Siam Design Hotel, Taan (its name taken from the Thai word "to eat") focuses on "hyper-local" ingredients taken from the various provinces of Thailand. "Hyper-local" referring to the fact that the restaurant works with local farmers who help cultivate ingredients, which are transported on the same day as harvest, ensuring the food is fresh.

Heading up to the 25th floor is all it takes to reach this sophisticated establishment. After walking past the resto's semi-open kitchen, potted plants and photographs of farmers, enter Taan's minimalist decor, its dining room able to house up to 42 people. A separate, smaller room with shiny, golden walls and leather seating is for private dinners. Overall, the vibe is classy in contrast to the meals being served, which are a mix of tradition and modernity. And what better way to have dinner than with a beautiful view of the city, thanks to the resto's 180-degree windows. Dining here while the sun is setting is a sight to behold.

Grilled Himawari holstein beef brisket.

The Menu

The menu is prepared by Taan's executive chef Monthep Kamolsilp, who shifted his previous experience in French cuisine to Thai after a trip to Chiang Rai. Inspired by the hill tribes working with sustainable resources, chef Monthep and his team seek to combine ingredients found all over Thailand and showcase them in unique dishes. As each dish is served, you can chat with chef Monthep as he explains the origins of the dish. His knowledge on each dish shows just how much care has been put into the menu. Each item not only lists the name and ingredients used but also mentions the region it comes from, as well as how many kilometres it originates from its source. Gimmicky but I like the attention to detail and trivia.

For starters, we decided to take small bites of the Snakehead fish & pomelo salad (B55 per bite). As the name suggests, the salad and the fish, which has been smoked with bamboo wood, is wrapped in croton leaf. Each bite has enough bitterness and spice, the smoky texture of the fish being subtle.

The Galangal paste & beef offal (B290), which is part of the dip menu, is great for sharing. Garnished with mushrooms, the plate consists of pieces of marinated beef cheek/tongue, stomach and intestines. I found myself going for multiple bites as each piece of meat tastes distinct and juicy, although I found the intestines a bit too oily. Make sure to use the spicy galangal paste for that extra kick of flavour!

From the soup, we had a sip of their Organic pork broth (B270). Hailing from the northern province of Nan, the pork broth has been slow cooked for two days before being served with pork tongue and heart and radishes. Just like the beef offal before it, the pork was surprisingly tender coupled with the soothing properties of the broth. Beneath the meat, lies the pandan sago tapioca balls and while squishy, they complemented the dish well without tasting sweet.

Re-Re-Khao-San.

For the main dishes, we tried their Organic Tapao-Thong chicken massaman curry (B550). Served with a helping assortment of vegetables, the chicken thighs were succulent and the curry gives my taste buds a right balance between spicy and sweet. If you opt for something a little more fishy, try the Black Wallago fish red curry mousse (B450) from Surat Thani, in which the steamed fish has been topped with kaffir lime salad and lathered in creamy and sweet basil coconut sauce.

We also opted to feast on Nakhon Ratchasima's Grilled Himawari holstein beef brisket (B690). Mixed with black pepper, lotus roots and basil leaves, the brisket was well-cooked, moist and tender just like how I want my briskets to be -- fun to chew and savoury in flavour! The brisket comes with a trio of dips -- eggplant, citrus and spicy galangal -- which gives you a lot of choice for experimentation.

Once we devoured all of the meat on offer, we decided to go with Taan's signature '4 Eggs' omelette (B280), which is essentially a big omelette made up of four different kinds of eggs -- horse crab roe, giant catfish roe, immature chicken eggs, and free-range chicken eggs. I love my omelettes but I must admit while tasty with their homemade sweet chilli sauce, I thought it tasted just like any other omelettes.

Finally, we finished up this long journey of Thai meals with dessert, namely the traditional-but-with-a-twist Kaffir lime loi-kaew (B210). Beautiful in its presentation the treat is served with poached kaffir lime pith and lemongrass jelly. Pour the butterfly pea-infused shaved ice onto the dessert, sprinkle some lime and watch its colour change before eating.

Insider's Tip

All the prices listed are subject to 10% service charge and 7% VAT. If you just don't know what to choose from the exotic menu, you could go for the restaurant's nine-course dinner set (B1,800 per person) in which you get an amuse bouche, two starters, one soup, four main courses (hope you bring a buddy with you) and a dessert.

There is also a drinks menu, which uses local base spirits and ingredients, its concoctions inspired by classic Thai elements. For something sweet yet spicy, try the rum-based Ku-su-ma (B330) cocktail, or if you want to try a more interesting way to enjoy your alcoholic beverage, go for the Re-Re-Khao-San (B330). Taking its name from the popular Thai children's game, this drink mixes north-eastern Isan rum with toasted sticky rice syrup and coconut water. The drink comes served with a scoop of sweet sticky rice -- be sure to take a nibble of it with each sip. If you want something stronger and bitter, try the At-Ta-Ros-Sii-Pek (B330), which are four shots of yadong mixed with mint, palm sugar and lime (best enjoyed with three others, unless you're feeling invincible and can do all four shots by yourself).

Value & Verdict

Classy yet casual, Taan offers diners a journey of Thai cuisine meals most may have not even tried (I certainly haven't tried many of what's on offer here). Both the restaurant and its meals are visually appealing and presentable. Prices are reasonable at best and with friendly staff, this is one dining experience that will likely amaze people who have yet to venture out of the city and try the more traditional food on offer, with a modern twist. g