After working as a seamstress for several years and losing everything in a fire, Supinya Junsuta, better known as Jay Fai, would go on to become the owner and sole chef of her eponymous street food restaurant. Recognisable by her use of giant woks over two charcoal braziers, ski mask goggles and exuberant energy when cooking, her shophouse restaurant earned a Michelin star in 2017, becoming the first street food restaurant to do so. The eatery has become a popular foodie destination for locals and tourists alike, who are eager to try her signature dishes such as her stir-fried noodles, tom yum and of course, the crab omelette. The veteran chef was recently featured in the Netflix series Street Food, Thailand being one of the nine Asian countries highlighted. We chat with Jay Fai on what it's like to be where she is today.
Once you were awarded a Michelin star, did you feel like there was a change in how people perceived street food?
It really helped change how people perceived street food by showing how significantly important it could be to the culture. It gave my restaurant and my job a lot more meaning. I thank Michelin for giving me the recognition my restaurant has. I met a lot of customers who came to congratulate me for the achievement. I've been asked if I am ever tired. I am but to see many customers eating at my restaurant makes me feel like it has been worth it and makes me continue to devote myself to cooking.
Would you be passing on the business to a successor?
Right now, I can cook just fine but only time will tell when I will have to take a step back. It would be difficult because my daughter, Nong Fai, is quite small. She might not be strong enough to carry our heavy wok all day to cook. I may be small too but I was strong when I was her age. Besides being physically strong, cooking also requires you to be mentally strong, whether it is handling customers or having a great deal of patience with your staff. As for a successor, it would have to be my daughter but the restaurant will have to change the way I run things to make it easier and more comfortable for her to take charge.
You mentioned that Thai cuisine is unique but if we want to make it better we must change or improve upon it. Could you elaborate what changes we have to make?
If we cook using the same traditional methods, we don't need to change or improve anything. But in this modern day and age, people change. With this change in lifestyle, the food changes too -- whether it would be change in flavour or how we cook, food evolves over time. I know that in the future, people will find ways to make cooking easier. Back then it would take a lot of time to prepare a meal but now anybody can quickly learn to cook and sell their food on the street. With easier methods, the taste in food will be changed and adapted to the way they cook, which is different from the way we cooked in the old days. Although the food will taste different, I think they will always find a way to make it taste good.
What is your favourite restaurant?
I like to eat anything with beef and fish as the base of the dish but I don't have a preferred restaurant.
Now that Street Food is on Netflix, more people will know about your restaurant. Do you have any plans to accommodate more customers?
I can only accommodate the same number of customers because that is my maximum capacity. I am happy to serve more people after receiving the Michelin star and being featured in the series, which means I have to continue making the restaurant even better, such as making sure all my ingredients are fresh and of good quality.
During the filming of this series, which moment was your favourite or impressed you the most?
The most impressive moment was the part when the filmmakers decided to take a look back during the time when I was young. It stunned me with the fact that I have come a long way, that during those days were different compared to where I am today. It all happened so fast but it was a long journey to get to where I am. I want to tell everybody to never be discouraged. Never give up. Whenever you fail, you can get back up. And when you get back up, you must be stronger. You have to fight for it. Success is in front of you within reach.
How do you take care of yourself?
I always take it easy and remain calm, never stressing out. You will have bad and good days, there will always be a new tomorrow. Do not dwell on disappointments, just let them go. Always stay positive. Sometimes I pray for the better.
What is the story behind the ski goggles?
As I'm old, my eyes require surgery. I had to undergo a surgery, which required me to wear glasses. The doctor told me I needed to rest my eyes and I wouldn't be allowed to cook. I began to think about the masks worn by bikers, which resulted in me buying the ski goggles to protect my eyes when cooking.
