Rather than over-reaching, Bangkok Trading Post Bistro & Deli (Market Place Nanglinchee; 137 Pillars Suites & Residences Sukhumvit Soi 39; Mercury Ville, Chidlom)’s secret of success is “outsaucing”.
Thus the brand name, a vague nod to early commerce in the American Wild West, alludes to bringing under one roof an artisanal collection of produce and products, whipping them into shapes and selling some over the counter.
With its temptingly stocked showcases and prep kitchen smack opposite the ground floor street door, the branch at Nanglinchee captures the foodie-friendly ambiance of a classic modern bistro. There’s a yachty deck outside and several tables in the airy inside. Stairs lead up to a chic mezzanine and terrace with whirring fans that you can also barge into from level two of the impressive community mall. The modern mat black exposed duct ceiling contrasts with retro memorabilia.
The cooking concept has gone into overdrive since the arrival of Frenchman Maxim Baile. Initially hired as a menu consultant while he was instructing at Le Cordon Bleu Dusit Culinary School, the masterminds snapped him up full time.
The main ethos is to be as Thai as possible. So far, it’s 80%. Given the Franco-Italian bistro grounding, that may be surprising but the world food ingredient map is increasingly influenced by carbon footprints.
Soon all the pasta will be made by an Italian artisan operating in Pattaya using recipes hammered out with Maxim. Gnocchi is in the works.
Likewise fresh mozzarella etcetera from another Italian, Thailand-based cheesemaker. Ditto peperoni, chorizo and other cured meats. An Australian outfit in Phuket specialises in fish preparations. A Canadian artisan in Chiang Rai supplies authentic blue cheese.
Same goes for breads and pastries and Roots coffee.
“We want to develop together with the farmers and artisans, helping them improve their products in a close partnership that includes staging special events together.”
“The goal is to be sustainable, even if we have to eat some margin,” he elucidates. “We cannot say 100% certified organic but you are eating something healthy.”
Thus the chicken is free range (no antibiotics or hormones) as is the veal that makes exceptional hot dogs.
Among the restaurant’s best sellers is a starter or drinks accompaniment Salt & Szechuan Pepper Squid (260), tempura-like crispy fried squid tendrils garnished with nori that you slather with tangy tartare-like aioli and munch with bites of grilled pepper and a little chili.
Tuna Tataki Salad (320), another hit, pits generous slices of black and white sesame-encrusted seared saku tuna, processed in Phuket, with a mega multi-ingredient collection of chickpea, edamame, red bean, quinoa, shallot, raisin, tomato, radicchio, three kinds of leaves, radish, corn, grape, pimento, drizzled with a kaffir-lime infused mayo and black pepper vinaigrette. A joy to eat and remarkable value.
As is Black Angel Hair Pasta (340) cooked with olive oil, chilli, roasted garlic and white wine, served with steamed prawn, topped with ikura.
Lanna Pizza (260/360) takes advantage of the format’s versatility to prepare a medium thin and crispy pie topped with mozzarella, then nam prik ong curry paste, then sai-ua Chiang Mai sausage with chillies, garlic, shallot, ground pork and tomatoes. Upcoming is a sushi pizza inspired by the community that throngs the soi 39 branch.
Desserts feature a new range of ice cream sandwiches priced from 90 baht. The made-to-spec ice creams ooze between crunchy dark cocoa waffle (Thai tea), macaron (strawberry) and cookie (cookies & cream), and sensually yielding Green Tea Ice Cream Profiterole etc.
“My background is more fine dining but we want people on a wide range of budgets to enjoy something tasty here.”
Open Mon-Fri 9am-10pm; Sat, Sun 7.30am-10pm/last order 9.30.
