From a bejewelled Birkin bag to a punk safety pin, Pierre Hardy has cast a black magic spell on Hermès latest jewellery.
His design wizardry combines the intensity of black gemstones with the femininity of rose gold, and in some pieces adding diamonds, in the new Black To Light collection.
"I envisaged black for its ability to expose light, as a counterpoint to the brilliance of the diamonds and to accentuate the purity and effectiveness of the forms," said Hardy, who has been creative director for Hermès jewellery since 2001.
He first joined the French maison in 1990 as a shoe designer, who has an education background in plastic arts and dancing experience with a contemporary ballet company. The latter allowed him to learn techniques of balance and movement.
From footwear to jewellery, the Parisian has injected his ingenuity into cool yet luxurious designs.
His use of black jade and black spinel emphasises finely wrought settings. Highly polished black jade, engulfed in light, takes on the intense depth of leather; the faceted surface of the spinels becomes dappled like the glossy coat of a thoroughbred in the sunlight.
"Darkness and light are treated like materials," he expressed. "Light, itself a precious material, is still and always will be fashioned by Hermès jewellery artisans."
The crafting of black stones is a highly-demanding work, and the beautiful contrast of the rose gold Black To Light pieces is made possible by the virtuosity of gem cutters, setters and polishers.
The grain, bezel and micro-pavé settings require the craftsmen's dexterity in gradually organising a tight arrangement to capture the light and create an almost minimalist purity of line.
Each setting requires sustained meticulousness and concentration. The Fouet necklace, for instance, takes the gem setter around 300 hours to delicately position 3,522 spinels, each cut with 57 facets, in a grain setting.
The transition to black transposes purity, light and sensuality with aesthetic energy for Hermès wearable objets d'art.
Birkin bag in rose gold and black spinels. Photos: Maud Rémy-Lonvis
Chaîne d'Ancre necklace and bracelet in rose gold and black spinels. Maud Rémy-Lonvis
Alchimie bracelet in rose gold and black spinels.
Galop Hermès bracelet in rose gold and black spinels.
Kelly bracelet in rose gold, black spinels and alligator skin. Hermes
Niloticus Lumière necklace in rose gold, black jade and diamonds.
Galop Hermès ring in rose gold and black jade.
