Renowned Korean chef Edward Kwon has launched his first modern Korean pop-up restaurant at Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok until Oct 7.
As head chef and proprietor of Lab XXIV by KUmuda, chef Kwon has created a culinary haven for gourmands in South Korea and endeavours to help Korean cuisine become more widely known internationally. “You will have a very different Korean food experience than your Korean BBQ. The cuisine does lean more towards Busan cuisine as I am the ambassador of Busan food,” says the chef.
The 12-course journey is designed to reflect signature Korean dishes in a contemporary presentation, beginning with five canapés that will give diners a new perspective on the cuisine. Sae woo jang is a sweet shrimp tartlet, fermented in soy sauce with yuzu puree, sea grapes and crispy white kombu. The bulgogi is a 10-year-aged soy-marinated beef fritter rice ball with shaved black truffle, done tableside. The rice ball is made in bibimbap style. The dakgalbi is a spicy chicken croustade, a quintessential Korean spicy chicken stir-fried dish with gochujang and various vegetables served in a flaky French croustade, pine nuts and fresh coriander.
Yukhoe, which literally means raw beef, is served like a Korean-style Wagyu beef tartare. The beef is marinated in sesame oil and red chilli oil. For a touch of French, the beef is served on a brioche with Korean pear and Avruga caviar.
“Do not expect to eat real Korean food at this pop-up. The concept is to bring the roots of Korean cuisine and twist it,” says chef Kwon.
Gimmari, which are friend Korean seaweed rolls, uses a popular of part of the tuna, otoro. Chilli-marinated seaweed cannelloni is served with otoro, kimchi and sea urchin ontop. One of my favourite Korean things to eat is their porridge and imagine my delight when I see it as the next course! “The origins of corn tarak (milk) jook (porridge) is from the Joseon dynasty in the 17th century. Jeongjo, who was the 22nd monarch of the Joseon dynasty did not have a good stomach and his chef created this dish to protect his stomach. This is why it doesn’t have no water and contains only milk and brown rice powder and corn. What looks like gnocchi in my dish are potato balls and I’ve also added sweet corn, squid with chive oil and garnished with micro celery,” explains chef Kwon.
The seventh course is Jeonbokjuk jjim or abalone with the Korean chawanmushi. “Traditionally the eggs are steamed in a dashi broth. The abalone is marinated overnight with kelp, without any salt and is then cooked and steamed for three hours. The dish is served with ikura and enoki. It is finished off with a light anchovy broth,” says the chef. Even though I am not a fish person, the Mulhoe keeps to tradition with the fiery red pepper broth. Literally meaning a medley of “seafood in water”, the broth has chilled raw sea bream with chilli broth, octopus and gochujang. The touch of fingerlime really does wonders to the palate.
The Samchi gui or charred mackerel from Busan comes with three sauces — the spicy samjang, red chilli and chives. Moving onto the star of the show, the Galbi uses Wagyu beef, slow-cooked at 58 degrees for an hour with a Korean soy sauce also known as ganjang, garlic and served with banchan, which are the quintessential Korean side dishes, that accompany every meal. The star of this dish isn’t the beef or the banchan; it is the sauce. “The sauce is made using beef bone broth cooked with onions, garlic, plum juice, salt and sugar,” adds the chef. He also adds beef trimmings to the stock and lets it reduce to make a sticky caramelly Korean demi-glace.
The 12-course menu concludes with surprise desserts to celebrate the journey with Hu sik or gamte, tangerine and omija, before concluding with Da gwa, which are petit fours of black sesame macaroon, jujube Rocher, red ginseng caramel and wild raspberry. Explore Korean cuisine in completely new ways.
The 12-course menu is priced at B4,900++ per person and a seven-glass wine pairing is priced at B2,700++ per person. The seven-glass beverage pairing is priced at B870++ per person and includes fresh juice, tea, mocktails, infused water and ginger beer. “Edward Kwon In Bangkok” pop-up restaurant is open until Oct 7. Call 02-162-9000, email dining.siambangkok@kempinski.com or Line:@Siamkempinskihotel.
