Dining among nature in the centre of Bangkok isn't the stuff of fairytales anymore. No longer do you have to experience the tragedy of attempting a picnic lunch at Lumpini Park, and being attacked by pigeons, turtles and monitor lizards in the process. Break free from the shackles of a faux-flora-and-fauna joint, where views of the concrete jungle loom like a dark shadow.
Hidden within Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre is a place where birds still chirp, trees still grow, and a vast lake still lies. Lake 'n Park is the new al fresco terrace in town, opened by the adjoining Retro Live Cafe which is an established venue for brunch, buffet and party functions.
The venue comes alive after sunset with red lights glowing from under the seating. The dim and sexy ambience made me want to touch myself, but that was only because an insect from the park across the street crawled its way up my leg. There's a gazebo at one end where musicians croon acoustic songs of Jason Mraz, Bruno Mars and the like.
While the lighting is just bright enough to read the impressively long menu, it sadly, prevents anyone from seeing the effort put into the food presentation.
Unlike students who cheat off each other, Oven roasted rack of lamb with veal reduction (B280; prices subject to tax) gets an honest "A". I almost didn't notice the lamb's unique smell and the rack is juicy and pleasantly chewy.
Marinated grilled wagyu beef with spicy jaew sauce (B220) is quite a marvel but can be ruined by dousing it in too much jaew. Adding aroma to the beef are fried Thai herbs while the fresh kale gives your jaw a good workout.
Like an overdone R&B song, Pan-fried scallops and arugula salad (B150) would be better in a smaller dose. The precious scallops lose their sweetness by being overcooked, like a riff repeated until it loses its charm. On the other hand, the grilled asparagus and crayfish vinaigrette work well together like a good duet.
Mixed grilled satays with peanut sauce Lake 'n Park style (B120) involves three types of meat. Like the iPod versus the no-longer-in-production Zune device, the lamb marinated in green curry is tasty while the prawn in red curry is less satisfying. The accompanying satay sauce is rich, sweet and oily, as it should be.
Stir-fried spaghetti with basil leaves, chilli and seafood (B170) isn't just another kee mao. The noodle is fried just right, not turning mushy or lumping up over time.The spicy and aromatic sauce will rock your palate. Kee mao lovers should have a fiery good time with the dish.
Pan-fried tuna, grilled mushroom and wasabi oil (B280) tastes great on the surface. It's deliciously drowned in butter sauce and wasabi oil while being topped with shavings of dried Japanese fish. Inside, however, it's too lean and could use more salt and pepper.
Besides the international fare on offer at Lake 'n Park, the wine selection is also diverse. Wine starts from B130 a glass, B750 by the bottle, and served in Riedel glassware. The maker of high-quality wine glasses from Austria is the first to introduce the idea of shaping glasses to enhance the characteristics of specific types of wine. But of course, that only matters to wine snobs, while the rest of us are content to drink the fermented grape liquid from a box.
With fireflies and some minor misses on the plates, Lake 'n Park ticks most boxes. However those looking for a mellow night with some serious food and wine may give it a more complete score.
Lake 'n Park
Fusion/International
Open 6-11pm
Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre (next to Benjakitti Park)
60 New Ratchadaphisek Road
02-203-4021-2
