Emerald elegance
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Emerald elegance

Chopard's Insofu Collection blends sustainability, luxury and conservation

SOCIAL & LIFESTYLE
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Caroline Scheufele worked with Indian gem-cutters on revealing Insofu’s inherent beauty.
Caroline Scheufele worked with Indian gem-cutters on revealing Insofu’s inherent beauty.

Working with precious stones, Caroline Scheufele finds it difficult to pick a favourite, but she is particularly mesmerised by green gems.

"There's a lot of life in emeralds, as the colour is associated with nature," said Chopard's co-president and artistic director.

A magnificent 6,225-carat rough emerald has been brought to life in the Insofu haute joaillerie collection, reinforcing Chopard's commitment to sustainable luxury.

Unearthed in the Kagem mine in Zambia, the rare stone was named Insofu, meaning "elephant" in the local Bemba language, due to its trunk-like shape and colossal size.

A different facet of the Insofu's character is reflected on each haute joaillerie.

A different facet of the Insofu's character is reflected on each haute joaillerie.

Emerald elegance

"In every stone lies a story, and my role is to listen and honour the natural magic they carry as treasures from the Earth," said Scheufele, who acquired Insofu a few years ago.

The Kagem mine is managed by Gemfields, which has long contributed to the development of surrounding communities and championed wildlife conservation projects.

A previous partnership with Gemfields saw Chopard incorporating responsibly sourced emeralds for the first time in its Green Carpet collection, which was released in 2016.

The following year marked another first for the maison, with the Garden of Kalahari collection created from a 342-carat rough diamond sourced from the responsibly managed Karowe mine in Botswana.

For her second project based on a raw stone, Scheufele enlisted the world's most skilled gem-cutters from India. At Chopard's workshops in Geneva, they meticulously examined the Insofu to propose cuts and facets that would optimise its inherent beauty.

Unlike a rough diamond, whose yield can be determined with scientific precision using specialised tools, a rough emerald only reveals its true potential during the delicate cutting process.

An ensemble of necklaces, including one with an exceptional 15.53-carat emerald.

An ensemble of necklaces, including one with an exceptional 15.53-carat emerald.

Internal inclusions, known as jardin, require careful handling, as cutting too close to them may cause fractures. It is also essential to ensure that the inclusions' position does not overshadow the stone's brilliance.

Ultimately, Insofu yielded 850 carats of traceable gems, used for a colourful parure unveiled last year, as well as the new haute joaillerie collection.

Since July 2018, Chopard has used 100% ethical gold in crafting all its watches and jewellery.

Its sustainability standards have been further elevated by the use of the Provenance Proof's Emerald Paternity Test, developed by Gübelin Gem Lab. This cutting-edge method involves injecting DNA-based nanoparticles into the gem's natural fissures, resulting in a permanent marking for traceability.

Emerald-cut and pear-shaped emeralds adorn the earring with a floral design.

Emerald-cut and pear-shaped emeralds adorn the earring with a floral design.

In terms of design, Scheufele drew inspiration from nature's organic and fluid lines, abstract forms, and the elegance of the Art Deco era for the Insofu Collection. The 15 pieces embody the joie de vivre portrayed in The Great Gatsby (1925) by F. Scott Fitzgerald.

Additionally, she designed five Caroline's Couture gowns to create a dialogue between fashion and high jewellery.

The extravagance of the Roaring Twenties is expressed in a unique set comprising a pearl sautoir, a choker, and two necklaces in ethical 18-carat white gold. One of these necklaces boasts a 15.53-carat emerald, surrounded by brilliant-cut emeralds, fancy-cut pink sapphires, and diamond brilliants.

Emerald-cut and pear-shaped green stones, alongside diamonds, adorn floral earrings crafted in ethical 18-carat white gold, platinum, and titanium. A cuff bracelet composed of 10 strands of pearls features a floral motif set with emeralds, Paraiba tourmalines, and diamonds.

Magnificent 6,225-carat Insofu rough emerald with a trunk-like shape.

Magnificent 6,225-carat Insofu rough emerald with a trunk-like shape.

Emeralds in various shapes and sizes portray a striking green pachyderm outlined by diamonds. This lucky pendant is designed with the elephant's trunk raised upward -- a gesture symbolising prosperity and good fortune.

Chopard will donate part of the profits from this collection to the Elephant Family, a charity working with conservation experts to address the challenges facing Asia's wildlife and the indigenous communities living alongside them.

"The final reveal of the Insofu collection is a moment I have long awaited -- one that could only be realised by aligning it with a meaningful cause to protect wildlife and nature, passions that have been close to my heart for many years," said Scheufele.

A cuff bracelet with emeralds standing out against the strands of pearls.

A cuff bracelet with emeralds standing out against the strands of pearls.

Caroline Scheufele worked with Indian gem-cutters on revealing Insofu's inherent beauty.

Caroline Scheufele worked with Indian gem-cutters on revealing Insofu's inherent beauty.

The Insofu Collection will raise funds for the Elephant Family.

The Insofu Collection will raise funds for the Elephant Family.

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