An abundance of seasonal local produce and freshwater fish make Prachin Buri a paradise for unique and delicious dishes
Ruan Phae
Prachin-Ban Sang Road (Highway 3481) Ban Sang District Prachin Buri Province Call 089-606-9833, 083-115-0990 Open daily 10am-11pm No credit cards accepted
This ramshackle, thatch-roof eatery by the Prachin Buri river is one of Prachin Buri’s closest restaurants to Bangkok. Only an hour’s drive from Bangkok’s Lad Krabang district, this suan ahan-style (open-air garden restaurant) venue serves up simple Thai cuisine prepared with the freshest of ingredients from the local harvest.
As ruan phae means raft house in Thai, the dining area of Ruan Phae is naturally set on a raft platform that links to the entrance foyer by a steep set of wooden stairs. Although it is a nice place for families with kids for the up-close views of the fish, it might not be an ideal destination for elders and people with walking aids.
Food-wise, don’t miss yum khana koong krob, or salad of kale with crispy shrimp (100 baht). Crunchy stems of kales (fresh, chilled and cut into cubes) tossed with fluffy battered morsels of shrimp and slices of celery and shallot come served in a sweet, sour and spicy dressing.
Should you look for a piquant fare to enjoy with the rice, I recommend phad cha pla khao, or stir-fried white sheatfish with herbs and spice (150 baht). This fiery platter presents supple fillets of the fish stir-fried with finger root ginger, green peppercorn, string beans, Thai eggplant, holy basil leaves and chillies.
The restaurant also has non-fiery treats to cater to chilli-shy diners and children. Try deep-fried chicken wings (80 baht) or the yum hed krob (platter of mushroom and shrimp fritters) for 100 baht.
Chom Chon
Prachin Anuson Road Approx 500m from Chao Phya Abhaibhubejhr Hospital Muang District Prachin Buri Province Call 037-212-313 Open daily 9am-9pm No credit cards accepted
Chom Chon, which opened in 1984, is by far the most famous of eating establishments in the province and probably the best of the bunch we’ve reviewed during our “Prachin Buri Gastronomy” road trip.
Just like the typical provincial eateries set out on the river bank, the dining area of Chom Chon (meaning “to view the stream” in Thai), is divided into two separate zones — the land section on the upper bank and on the floating platform on the river.
The cuisine presents a vast selection of the central plain’s classics — the likes of tom yum prepared with freshwater fish, grilled river prawn and a variety of curries.
Among the most popular dishes from the menu is the grilled line-caught river prawn (1,200 baht per kilogramme). Our half-kilo order containing three medium-sized prawns, with firm supple meat, was made even tastier with its cheese-like fat and smoky charred aroma.
Of the variety of freshwater harvests such as pla ma (small-scale croaker), pla nuea on (sheatfish), pla buek (giant catfish) and pla hed khone, we decided to have tom yum soup with pla khao (120 baht) — later voted as our favourite culinary offering from Prachin Buri.
The tom yum pla khao featured meaty fillets of great white sheatfish, with a scale-free thick skin that yielded an exciting tacky texture. The wonderful fish, in generous offering, came bathed in a well-flavoured broth seethed in herbs and spices to provide an addictive sour, salty and fiery taste. Another best-seller really worth having was som tam pu ma mee sod or green papaya salad tossed with fresh blue swimming crab and accompanied by rice vermicelli (80 baht). The bracing zest of this long-cherished raw-food cuisine was enhanced nicely by subtle dressing and lots of fresh bird’s eye chillies.
Other favourite treats among regulars are pla kraphong thod nam pla, or deep-fried sea bass with salty sweet fish sauce (280 baht) and pickled red blood cockle with a special dipping sauce and fresh vegetables (120 baht).
A complimentary platter of khanom sai sai, or coconut cream pudding with caramelised coconut flakes in banana leaf wrapping, were served at the end of the meal to offer a sweet finish. Chom Chon’s service, by a team of knowledgeable staff, was agreeable.
Pranom
Suwannason Road, near Wat Koh Wai Nakhon Nayok Province Call 037-399-550 and 081-907-4358 Open daily 8am-8.30pm No credit cards accepted
Pranom, another popular restaurant in the vicinity, is situated right at the border of Prachin Buri in Nakhon Nayok province.
Located on the side of a beat-up provincial highway, this spacious 300-seat eatery proved a paradise for its food, but not so much for its ambience or setting.
You will find almost a hundred options of Thai and Chinese dishes here, including yum (sour and spicy Thai salad), curries, tom yum as well as stews and stir-fries.
But the all time best-seller that you shouldn’t miss is kha moo mun throw, or stewed pork leg with steamed Chinese bun (280 baht for the stew and 20 baht for the bun).
Famous for its fat-free quality, the hefty leg of firm and flavoursome pork indeed comes without any squelchy sliver of fat underneath its thin tacky skin. The brown gravy, in which the leg came half-bathed, was quite thin in consistency, yet pungent in taste. The scrumptious bun provides the perfect complement to the dish.
A popular dish rarely-available nowadays owing to its difficulty to cook is pla taphien tom khem (180 baht). The dish features a whole silver barb fish, which is slow-cooked until the meat becomes almost creamy soft and its bones brittle. The salty sweet flavour of the broth which penetrates the fish makes it a good match to a warm plate of jasmine rice.
The restaurant’s most popular choice of dessert represents the impressive food heritage of the rice-farming area. Khao krayakhoo (25 baht) is a silky, pudding-like delicacy made with the milky essence of a young rice sheaf scented with pandan and laced with coconut cream and it did not disappoint.
Though food tasted good and came out quick, service was a touch unpleasant and unfriendly due to a lack of staff. During our visit, we noticed the waiting staff fail to respond to several common tasks, including promptly taking orders, making dish recommendations and noticing diners’ calls.
Kai Thod Phan Thong
Thedsaban Damri Road, Muang District Prachin Buri Province Call 037-211-546 Open daily 8am-2pm No credit cards accepted
As its name suggests, this time-honoured eatery set in a tattered two-unit shophouse in downtown Prachin Buri has been, for over 20 years, known and locally cherished for its fried chicken expertise.
Set right at the front of the restaurant are three large woks, which are almost constantly deep-frying pieces of chicken in bubbling hot cooking oil. Thighs, wings and breasts (40-60 baht) dipped in spiced batter right before being cooked create a crispy and delicious golden exterior. They can also be ordered for takeaway, and enjoyed with or without sticky rice.
For those who do decide to eat in, there are several other dishes besides simple fried chicken to cater to various appetites. Although, to be fair, all are of classic recipes just with a fried-chicken “twist”.
Among the most popular, khao mun gai thod, or fried chicken rice (35 baht), cooked with chicken broth was excellent.
The khao kaphrao gai thod, or stir-fried sweet basil leaves with fried chicken over rice (35 baht) was also delightful.
Though this open-air eatery cooled by ceiling fans has quite a stale ambience, the service of this family-run restaurant, by sweet and cordial uncles and aunties, help add a very pleasant and homely touch to the restaurant.
