These days in Bangkok, it's not just about choosing simply "pizza" for dinner, but what style of pizza you'd prefer. It's a good problem, after all, but we'll have to get used to such discernment. In the latest contender in the pizza race, the team behind Appia has delivered Peppina, a bustling mid-Sukhumvit spread that has somehow become everything from a Sunday evening pizzeria to a Friday night hot spot. It has only been open a few months and it's already full, all the time, so book in advance — something else that will need getting used to in this city. The kitchen dominates the warehouse-style room to good effect, involving you right in the action among the countless food and floor staff buzzing about the place. It's great for big groups (definitely book), and during our early sitting we were flanked by two tables of at least 10, who were easily accommodated. Nooks in the back section (under the stylish wall tiles that spell "Peppina") offer more intimacy for smaller groups. Overall, there's room for 80 or so.
THE MENU
The team continues its commitment to authenticity — a mantra established at Appia (just around the corner). This time Chef Paolo has looked south to Naples (Napoli) for inspiration, where he sourced the recipes, the dough flour, the oven, even the boisterous chef who charismatically prowls the open kitchen. But the place is no one-trick pony either, with grilled and fried sections on the menu expanding its scope and versatility. Beetroot salad with rucola (B230++) comes with walnuts and robiola cheese for a perfect palate cleanser. From the bruschette section, Asparagus salad (B240) is a sliced, raw and crunchy serve of the plant with a little Norcia ham and glued together with a dollop of delectable stracciatella cheese. Robiola cheese and n'dujia (B200) packs more punch with spicy Italian sausage offsetting the creamy cheese.
From the specials, Tronchetto (B420) is a roll of ripieno — or stuffed pizza — with ricotta, taleggio, mozzarella, ham, rocket and more in a total triumph and highlight. From the fritti (fried) section, Arancino (B180) is an oversize risotto ball stuffed with porchetta and chicory. Frittatina (B220) is fried pasta with cheese, ragu and plenty of black pepper. Then the pizzas. The duke (B280, B390) is robiola cheese with balsamic, Italian sausage, onion, tomatoes and tarragon in a sweet but popular choice. Prosciutto crudo (B240, B360) bursts with freshness of Parma ham, rocket, nodino and parmesan cheese (added post baking). From griglia (grilled), Grilled Italian sausage (B400) is well-herbed and hearty. Rosticciata (B520) are huge marinated pork ribs with plenty of meat on the bone and well-cooked garlic. Spicy baby chicken (420) is also well marinated and herbed, cooked through, and also to share.
For drinks, The Peppina bellini (B240) features fresh pomelo to counter the sweetness. Salvia sour (B240) balances gin, sage, rosemary, thyme and lime well. All cocktails were on point. Don't miss the Birra del Borgo on tap (three varietals, B220 for 330ml) and good selection of bottled beer — this is pizza, after all.
INSIDER TIP
Mining the lengthy specials menu is advised — our visit was lucky enough to coincide with a visit from Chef Paolo's mother who had hand-carried conciato cheese from the sole maker in Italy on the plane straight to the restaurant and onto our milky Pizza conciata, to amazing effect. They will open for lunch soon too, hopefully this month, in a blessing for local office workers.
SOCIAL MEDIA MOMENTS
Post your pizza shots just before dinner time to torment your buddies stuck in traffic on their way home to eat. Just don't tag your location because they might appear to steal a slice or two.
VALUE & VERDICT
Maybe the competition of the best pizza in Bangkok is now redundant with such variety, scope and quality available. Some like Pala Pizza Romana, some like Bella Napoli. But we like this place at the moment, for its bustling kitchen energy, steady crowd and dedication to authenticity. Do it cheaper and share a pizza or go big, like we did. Either way, big points for Peppina.
