Following the heartbreaking news concerning the removal of food stalls on Sukhumvit Soi 38 (Bangkok's foodie paradise), many are distraught, with not a clue as to where our favourite food vendors (whom we love to hit up after a long night of fist-pumping) will relocate. As humongous malls and super-ultra-luxurious condominiums continue to expand and occupy every square metre of the city, it won't be long until we're digging into a B200 som tam on the 60th floor of some lacklustre, air-conditioned, concrete tower.
But fear not, Dear Readers, as Guru takes a look at a number surviving food stall havens that are standing strong and challenging the luxury real estate boom.
Jae Waree market (next to Embassy Place)
This go-to lunch destination is located within walking distance from offices around the Ploenchit and Chidlom areas. With a good mix of fashion, accessories and delicious treats, it's no wonder why even the staff at Central Embassy makes a daily trip across the walkway. Sandwiched between offices, banks and supersized malls, the market is fully stocked with countless classics of Thai cuisine, quick dishes and even salad for healthy eaters. Let's face it, as much as we love to dine on the premises of an air-conditioned mall's food court, nothing tastes as good as pad krapow that keeps sweat cascading off our foreheads like a waterfall -- especially when the end of the month rolls around and our credit cards are all maxed out.
Don't miss: Kanom piak poon (or black coconut sweet pudding), which is sold at a nameless stall at the front of the market. Simple and delicious, it make a lip-smacking afternoon snack at the office.
Rung Rueng's block
If you're a noodle fanatic, Rung Rueng should be at the top of your hit list. Still going strong after more than 50 years selling pork noodle made from the same recipe, Rung Rueng's crowd never seems to thin. You know those fad eateries that leave your legs cramped from seemingly endless queues? You should be spending your precious time here instead, a fact proved by the area's ability to withstand the test of time. Despite long queues every day of the week, B40 and B50 baht plastic noodle bowls are efficiently dished out to customers ranging from locals to Japanese and Western expats.
Don't miss: Everyone likes to customise their noodles, but don't miss the tom yum broth, which is spicy, zesty and simply mouthwatering.
Petch Asok market
They say if you work around Asok, you'll never run out of things to eat. And they're right. There's been a huge influx of international cuisine and fast food joints in the area's large office buildings and Terminal 21. But if you want food that tastes like home, the Petch Asok market won't disappoint. Situated between the Grammy Building and Srinakharinwirot University, office workers and university students make up most of the customer base. During lunchtime, hundreds of people munch their way through the market and its jam-packed food court, which includes southern Thai cuisine, som tam, curries, snacks on sticks and sweetened beverages our doctors warn us against consuming (not that we listen).
Don't miss: For a substantial meal, it doesn't get better than Komdech Khao Mok Kai, which serves up the crispiest fried chicken carrying with it the wonderful aroma of curry and spices.
The Saphan Lueng strip
Head past the overcrowded and overpriced Siam area and you'll reach Saphan Lueng, on Rama IV Road. Food enthusiasts will love the stalls scattered along the side of a traffic-clogged street, where you can find anything from duck noodles to Chinese shaved-ice desserts -- most of which won't cost you an arm and a leg. The exceptions would be the famous dishes, such as Sawang crab claw noodles, which you'll happily allow to suck B500 from your wallet. It's hardly surprising when you see the street occupied by flashy Mercedes-Benzes and BMWs. Known for long traditions and original recipes, most of these stalls have been operating for more than 50 years -- and plan to remain where they are for years to come.
Don't miss: The famous soft-boiled rice with pomfret fish (khao tom pla), which costs around B400 per bowl. Find it at the “Virun Ice Cream” shophouse, (which oddly doesn't sell ice cream). It's only open in the evening, so make sure you get there early before the fish runs out -- or if you want to find a decent parking space.
On Nut market
Open from early evening till late at night, the On Nut market keeps at bay the grumbling tummies of hungry office workers returning home. Tucked beneath On Nut BTS station, it has nestled itself neatly on a strip that's quickly filling up with residential buildings. Thonglorites may have to hop on the BTS for a few stops to get a taste of food stalls here -- which we hope no big-shot developer will have the nerve to tear apart.
Don't miss: The chicken noodles with ampalaya and ivy gourds (kuay tiew gai mara tum lueng) at the eponymous food stall. Head there at 5pm to avoid the evening rush and enjoy your noodles without the pressure of giving up your seat to impatiently waiting customers eyeing you with steely glares.
Kerbside of Sukhumvit 55-57
Famous for luxury apartment buildings, hotels and high-end restaurants, Thong Lor's never been a place to hold back on making space for the next big thing.
Situated along the Sukhumvit Road, the kerbside stalls of Khon Sae Lee and Zaew Noodle have kept their cool amid all the development happening around them.
Still enjoying an endless flow of regular customers, we think this could be the closest (at least distance-wise) alternative to Soi 38.
Don't miss: Zaew's home-made fish balls. It's busy all hours of the day, so be prepare to queue up. Zaew also dishes out some fantastic yen ta fo, if you're a fan of the pink stuff.
Streetside story:
We catch up with Siripon “Pon” Luengpreda, a third generation of the family that sells the famous khao tom pla at Saphan Lueng. He tells us about the origins of his stall and shares his thoughts on the Soi 38 shutdown.
- THE HISTORY: Our family has been serving up khao tom pla for more than 60 years. After migrating from China, our grandfather settled down in Thailand and started selling the dish at Yaowarat. He later decided to relocate his stall to Saphan Lueng. Back then, the area wasn't a popular food destination like it is today. He believed the best-tasting dishes are made from the best quality ingredients, so we've stuck with the same principles and recipe since the day he began the business. He reminded us that affordability is also important, and that customers should get what they pay for. We have loyal customers from all generations who refuse to eat khao tom pla anywhere else.
- ON FRANCHISING: We've had many offers from people who'd like to open our shop in department stores and hotels. Although it's a great opportunity, I don't think it's worth it to sacrifice the original taste we've sustained for 60 years, because it will be difficult to establish the same method of quality control [in multiple locations]. From boiling the broth and steaming the rice to selecting the ingredients, we have our own way of doing things, and we'd like to continue this tradition as long as we can. Our regular customers also enjoy the familiar setting of our stall at Saphan Lueng, which has remained exactly the same.
- SECRET OF SUCCESS: For a restaurant to be successful, it must not take advantage of its customers. They should be able to enjoy the whole package of eating good food and experiencing good service. It's important to be honest with ourselves about the way we are with our food. For example, if the ingredients aren't fresh, then we won't even think about using them. That's how we maintain our standards.
- ON THE REMOVAL OF SOI 38 FOOD STALLS: It's a huge shame. Not only because we don't know where they'll relocate, but also because what's replacing them is (surprise, surprise) another large-scale residential building. It's all the same here -- either it's big department stores or condominiums. To think that the food stalls and vendors Bangkokians cherish and love are being chased out of the area to create more room for these developments is really disheartening. I hope developers really take notice of the growing dissatisfaction it's causing among the vendors and the foodie communities.
