Kiwis and Aussies are often referred to by their UK-based Commonwealth cousins as “Antipodeans”. In fact, the antipodes of any place on Earth is the point on the Earth's surface which is diametrically opposite it. The antipodes of Britain is just south of New Zealand.
And now there are two New Zealand restaurant-bars in Bangkok which are in a sense antipodean to each other; Snapper New Zealand, a smallish joint on Soi 11 Sukhumvit specialised in Kiwi seafood and meats, and the more comprehensive kai New Zealand in the rapidly gentrifying Sathorn 12 ‘hood which Night Out scoped out recently. Why Kai? It’s Maori for tucker.
Open since August last year, Kai occupies an old home office near The Address condo, residents of which are good customers. Radically refurbished, it sports a sexy black skin and a post-industrial meets backwoods interior with a street-side terrace and a balcony offering al fresco options.
Sheaves of wheat and pot plants connect to nature while blond softwood ceiling panels soften the preponderance of polished concrete. A central atrium turns the upper level into a gallery from which you can gaze down on the main dining and kitchen action. Seating ranges around kitchen tables set with horsehair stools, diner tables with farmhouse chairs, high tables with stools, coffee tables with sofas and cosy nooks.
They decided not to do live music but the modern soundtrack is well mixed and avuncular Restaurant Manager Ron reckons 90% of customers come for the eats, although cool snack selections mean it needn’t be a blow out.
You will be tempted to go the whole hog, however, by the comfort-food-meets-gourmet menu hammered out between Kiwi mastermind Craig McLean and French Group Chef Laurent Francois. The resulting “Cuisine Kiwiana” hits the spot with the power of a haka.
Authentically New Zealand are the imported beef, lamb, venison, fish and some seafood like green-lipped mussels. Bacon, fish, mussels and certain meats are home-smoked over Manuka honey wood. Most are marinated in various ways, except for the beef which is home-aged for tenderness without redness. Grilling over lava stones imparts an appetizing smokiness.
Whole pages of the menu are devoted to medium-crust pizzas, fish & chips permutations, and burger selections, all with appropriate sides.
Local ingredients are mainly sourced from ethically minded producers using free range, organic and sustainably farmed produce. Homemade products, including breads, sauces, relishes, pies, pizzas, biscuits and ice creams that show up in moreish milkshakes, are particular draws.
Portions are sized on the assumption that you have spent the day shearing sheep or rugby training. A good example is Drunken Tuna strips marinated in dark rum, soy sauce, sesame oil, ginger and orange peel, mixed with crisp white cabbage and onion and topped with fresh coriander and aged balsamic. Healthy, delicious and satisfying, what more can you ask?
Also 90% New Zealand is the wines list (who knew there were so many?), including house white at 190 a glass. Similarly authentically NZ are bottled and draft beers, mineral waters, 42 Below Vodka and Manuka Honey Liqueur with a gold flake inside. Plus Aussie beers, craft beers and ciders. Excellent house roast coffee, served every which way, is a secret blend of three South American beans.
Check out the AYCE fish'n'chips every Monday at Snapper for 450 baht and daily happy hours from 5.00-7.00 pm for buy one get one or 20% off.
Open 9.30 or 8.30 on weekends. Last food orders 10.30.
