Explore the village of Ban Prasat, Nakhon Ratchasima, where people live side by side with skeletons from ancient times.
"No matter how bad the drought is, this Prasat stream never dries up. Thus, it is considered a holy stream. It is one of the nine sources of holy water used for royal ceremonies, such as the King's coronation," Tiam Laoongklang, village head man, explains. "We call it the Prasat stream as it passes three Khmer ruins. When the stream changed its course, the ruins were submerged."
Excavation pits at Ban Prasat.
We walk back to the village of Ban Prasat, passing the ramp which runs down from the village to the stream. Tiam points at the roadside which shows heavy soil erosion caused by rain.
"We always find ancient pottery after rain. Not only along the road, but pottery can be found everywhere in the village, in our backyards, in the fruit orchards, even under our houses. The artefacts of the human settlement we found right here can be dated back to around 3,000 years ago." According to the Fine Arts Department, Ban Prasat sits on an old settlement of an agricultural-ceramic society in prehistoric times. A community of the Dvaravati and Khmer periods thrived here during the 6th-11th and 12th-14th centuries. There are three excavation pits that have been landscaped and opened to the public.
Discoveries include human skeletons in the burial sites, ornaments like bronze and jewellery, glass beads and many pottery pieces that were dug up from various levels.
"From artefacts found here, settlement occurred here four times," he says, adding the site is Thailand's second archaeological site (after Ban Chiang in Udon Thani) set up as an outdoor museum.
The first excavation pit at Ban Prasat is comprised of many human skeletons buried at different depths, starting from 2.5m lower than the surface. Also, there are ceramic pots and personal belongings. Bronze ornaments were also found in the skeletons' arm bones.
"Before 1982, villagers made a lot of money from selling antiques as they could be found everywhere.
Excavation pits at Ban Prasat.
"I think over a truckload of antiques were brought away from the village. Today, nobody earns from antiques anymore. We have stopped digging."
He drives me around the village and shows me. At the second pit, a head of a Buddha statue, mould of a bronze adze and crucible are found. In total, 59 skeletons were found in the three pits.
"Once, there was a house built right on the pit. The family living there were all crazy. The excavations found headless skeletons in the ground," he says.
You may find it weird to live over burial sites. However, villagers of Ban Prasat today live well among the excavation pits. This archeological site also offers a homestay service and other activities for tourists.
I slowly roam the village and get a very warm welcome. At lunch, housewives prepare local dishes such as Korat fried noodles, local sweets made from sticky rice and fermented fish. A lady chef proudly presents her best dish, som tam.
A short walk away is a basketry business. After farm work, housewives gather to weave mats, baskets, hats and shoes. Buying handmade products from origin, you will be surprised when comparing prices from here with retail prices at Chatuchak Weekend Market.
Nakhon Ratchasima is well known for its beautiful silk cloth, and Ban Prasat is a production base. Textile lovers never miss visiting shops which offer local-made silk at very good prices.
I explore the village, enjoy eating and shopping, forgetting for a while that I am roaming around excavation pits.
Ban Prasat Archaeological Site is located at Nong Sung north of Nakhon Ratchasima.
Call TAT's Nakhon Ratchasima office at 044-213-030.
Villagers cooking for homestay tourists.
Handmade footwear.
Delicate silk products.
