Strolling a 2.78km-long stretch of Silom Road and its satellite roads to learn about the development of modern education, medicine and missionary work in Thailand is well worth all the sweat.
Today, Silom is Thailand's major business district and nightlife hub. It also is Siam's first batch of roads that was built during the reign of King Rama IV. This development occurred after the 1855 signing of the Bowring Treaty with Britain, which consequently saw an increasing number of Western traders coming to Siam, bringing with them Western-style healthcare, education and sports.
On neighbouring Surawong Road, the 96-year-old Neilson Hays Library was recently reopened after a major restoration project. The library is worthy of a visit and appreciation of culture-loving tourists.
Khun Sirikitiya Jensen, the youngest daughter of Princess Ubolratana, was a guest of honour at the recent reopening. She discussed her favourite book and cultural preservation in a discussion titled, "Treasuring The Old And The New".
"I'm interested in conservation. This library has a unique history and architecture. It saw a lot of history and foreigners coming to Thailand. It is interesting how it reflects culture through connections. Walking together, we form contemporary layers," she noted.
Nestled on a 1 rai plot of land, the library was designed by Italian architect Mario Tamagno in the neoclassical style with domes and Corinthian pillars as well as a floor plan in the shape of the letter H. It was constructed with the same technique as the Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall. Today, the library has 17,000 English-language books.
Dr T. Heyward Hays, an American physician who spent his life in Siam in the 19th century, dedicated this library to his bookworm wife Jennie Neilson Hays in 1921. Mrs Hays was a member of this library when it was mobile and run by the Bangkok Ladies' Library Association. The mobile library was established in 1868 by the wives of Dr Bradley and Dr Smith, Siam's first missionary doctors during the Rattanakosin Period.
Dr T. Heyward Hays, dedicated the library to his wife Jennie Neilson Hays in 1921.
Today, the library is a non-profit organisation that is operated mostly by its volunteers. It is financed by its memberships, donations and arts programming. It serves as a cultural centre that offers educational and cultural activities, such as toddlers' story time, writing competitions, concerts, workshops, performances and book sales.
Nalin Vanasin, president of the Neilson Hays Library Association Board, said: "The current library building was erected in 1921 and was registered as a historic site by the Fine Arts Department in 2001. The 18-month restoration effort was made possible with support from both the non-profit and private sectors. This project was an example of an ideal community collaboration in creating something beautiful for the common good."
According to conservation architect Yuwarat Hemasilpin, a member of the Neilson Hays Library restoration project team, the library is a symmetrical neoclassical building with a domed foyer, or rotunda, as the original entrance. It is different from other library buildings of the same period since it was specially designed to serve as a library.
The building can shoulder the weight of books properly since its main structures and book cabinets are placed on the same position. It has systems to ensure good ventilation and protect books from moisture and termites.
The restoration lasted two years and began with research from the original blueprint, old pictures from the library's archive and historical documents from the National Archives of Thailand. According to history, damage was done by Japanese troops who occupied the library as one of their strongholds in Bangkok and removed all the books and objects during World War II.
Khun Sirikitiya Jensen in the library.
The next step was to do research and examine the original structures, roof, ceiling and stucco motifs of the building so that the restoration team could reconstruct and rebuild the building's removed parts, such as certain arches and walls, as well as the missing book cabinets.
The team also checked the different layers of paint on the exterior and interior of the library building. The walls are now in green white, the doors and windows in green and window frames in the colour of wood while the original tones were blue and pink.
A visit to the Neilson Hays Library allows for the exploration of neoclassical architecture in Thailand and the history of the development of Siam in the early Rattanakosin Period, besides reading books. It is also an opportunity for visitors to learn about proper approaches to restoring old buildings.
TRAVEL INFO
- The Neilson Hays Library is open Tuesdays-Sundays from 9.30am-5pm. Entry is free, although non-members who wish to read books in the library must pay 100 baht per head per day.
- Visit neilsonhayslibrary.org or contact the librarian at 02-233-1731 or
email librarian@neilsonhayslibrary.org
