A journey through time

Peru is synonymous with Machu Picchu and vice versa. However, it is so much more than that.

With landscapes ranging from Amazonian rainforests, snowcapped Andes, the Amazon River and lush flora and fauna, the South American country offers much more than just being home to one of the greatest wonders of the world.

Lima

Exiting Jorge Chavez International Airport in Lima, I find myself dealing with a very Asian-type situation -- traffic. The hustle and bustle of the capital city is apparent, though the one striking thing (for now) is the lack of tall buildings. Even the traffic light vendors are reminiscent of Asia!

Lima is Peru's largest city and is divided into 40 districts. The 45-minute drive takes me along the Pacific Ocean. Though the ocean appears to be cold and rough, the huge amount of surfing schools that dot the oceanside are testament to the amount of early bird surfers riding the waves. Fun fact: Lima is the only western-facing capital in the world on the coast.

Barranco

Barranco is Lima's artsy district, home to historical buildings, cathedrals, museums, coffee shops and sunset viewpoints. Once known as the seaside resort of the wealthy, Barranco has some of the largest mansions in Lima, so keep your eyes peeled outside.

The place to stay would be Hotel B under Relais & Chateaux, a building that dates back to the Belle Epoque era. Located in a protected historic area next to the ocean, the hotel is full of old world charm. Breakfast is spectacular if you're staying here at the weekends and breakfast closes at noon…how is that for luxury? A leisurely stroll from Hotel B covers all the major sites of Barranco. You can walk along the ocean to soak in sun and sea.

The famous Puente de los Suspiros aka The Bridge Of Sighs is one of the main attractions. Make a wish and cross the 44m wooden bridge while holding your breath to ensure it will come true. The iconic bridge spans the Bajada de los Banos cobbled path that was once a river winding down to the ocean. Built in 1876, it opened on Valentine's Day, so it is not unusual to see couples holding hands, holding their breaths and crossing the bridge, which links Calle Ayacucho with the Church Of The Hermitage. Fun fact: It is said the bridge gets its name from the daughter of a merchant who fell in love with a street cleaner, a relationship not condoned by her father, who locked her in a room. All the girl could do, apparently, was look out of the window at the bridge, and sigh each time she thought of her lover.

The Iglesia de la Santisima Cruz is the most popular Roman Catholic church in Barranco. Built between 1944-1963, the architecture draws from neo-classical and neo-colonial styles, and it has an outstanding bell tower. Barranco is also home to some of the best food in Peru and the World's Best Restaurant 2023 -- Central and Latin America's No.7 best restaurant, Kjolle.

Central

The brainchild of chef Virgilio Martinez, Central is his ode to Peru, with a menu that celebrates the country's indigenous ingredients guided by Mater Iniciativa. Having opened in 2008 by chef Martinez, the restaurant feeds off Mater, created by chef Martinez and his sister Malena in 2013, a scientific research centre with the objective of exploring Peru to nurture the concept, narrative and gastronomic proposal of Central.

A meal at Central is unlike any other. Serving ecosystems following altitudes on a plate would be the best way to describe a meal here. Central is a showcase of Peruvian biodiversity, offering a unique sensory and visual route, designed around heights and ecosystems, including ingredients from -15m above sea level to 4,200m above sea level. "We worked hard to make these unfamiliar ingredients as familiar in the restaurant as they were in their habitat. In Central, you find Peru from dense glaciers and rugged peaks, through green forests and meandering rivers, barren desert and colourful valleys to the infinite blue of the ocean melting into the horizon," explains chef Martinez.

Kjolle

Across Central's courtyard is Latin America's No.2 restaurant, Kjolle. Helmed by the World's Best Female Chef 2021, Pia Leon, the restaurant is housed in the former cultural centre Casa Tupac and features an open-plan kitchen. While co-directing the kitchen of Central together with husband, chef Martinez, chef Leon's signature restaurant, Kjolle, showcases furniture, ceramics and textiles that are handcrafted by local artisans.

The restaurant gets its name from the kjolle (Buddleja Coriacea) tree, which grows in the Andes. The bright yellow flowers are characterised by their dyeing properties, which also ties back to the restaurant. Kjolle's dishes offer a kaleidoscopic taste of Peru's countless ingredients, with the menu exploring all corners of the country. "I love getting out of the kitchen to have conversations and learn about new things: people, cultures, products, climates, geography, says chef Leon.

Cusco

A picturesque plane ride from Lima lies Cusco, the capital of the Inca Empire. Early morning is the best time to fly over the Andes and see it from above; make sure to get a window seat. Since Cusco is 3,400m above sea level, do have your altitude sickness medication on hand and take at least a day to acclimatise.

Considered the oldest living city of the Americas, the first urban structures in Cusco were only built some 3,000 years ago. The city of Cusco is a Unesco's World Heritage City and is testament to the ancient Inca civilisation. It is also the main city on the way to Machu Picchu, the Inca Trail and the Sacred Valley.

It's best to head to the town square to see the exquisite Centro Historico De Cusco, Cusco Cathedral, Qorikancha -- ruins that were once the most important temple of the Incas -- San Blas, which is the traditional old quarter, and the Mercado Central de San Pedro, the central market full of souvenirs, a wet market and lots of street food stalls.

It would be a shame to leave Cusco without having dined at Chica, the restaurant of the godfather of Peruvian cuisine, Gaston Acurio. If you've eaten or even heard of ceviche, it would be not far-fetched to say that chef Acurio has made Peruvian cuisine the country's proudest export. Don't forget to try the trout ceviche and the original Pisco Sour. While El Dia del Pisco Sour or Pisco Sour Day is on the first Saturday in February, which may not be the best month to visit, we can always get a pisco sour anywhere.

Mil Centro

The second Peruvian restaurant of chef Martínez is Mil, 3,600m above sea level and close to the Inca ruins at Moray in the Sacred Valley. For the most immersive experience into the biodiversity of Peru, a journey to Mil is a must. A two-hour drive into the Andes from Cusco, Mil's anthropologists foster relations with tight-knit indigenous communities and plant, nurture and harvest sustainable tuber crops, maize, legumes, cacao and Andean herbs, and care for a small on-site orchard.

The immersion includes a short hike around these surroundings, while conversing with locals about their work and daily life, listening to stories entwined in tradition and culture, becoming familiar with the native plants that, since ancient times, have been used for their nutritional and medicinal purposes and collecting dye-yielding and aromatic plants.

After the short hike, trek back to Mil, which has oxygen tanks if you're short of breath due to the high altitude, for a refreshing line of liquids. The gastronomic experience at Mil is a culmination of head chef Luis Valderrama's innovative menu made with products found in the environment surrounding Mil. You can also visit the tiny cacao lab and enjoy its fruits for dessert.

Machu Picchu

To begin the trek to Machu Picchu, head to Ollantaytambo, 1.5 hours from Cusco. It is better to stay here instead of travelling on the day of visiting the ancient wonder and the only hotel located inside Ollantaytambo station is the perfect choice.

El Albergue is a historic hotel and offers comfortable accommodation, with a farm-to-table restaurant. The farm is at the rear of the property. It is also home to Destileria Andina, which makes Cana Alta, the Andian elixir, and Cafe Mayu, which makes the early morning trip to Machu Picchu even more pleasurable.

Of the many trains to Machu Picchu, one of the best ones is the PeruRail Vistadome. Each of the cars features panoramic windows, which is a huge bonus because the landscape heading up to the mountains is breathtaking. Insider's Tip: Sit on the left-hand side of the train for the best views of the river and the Inca trail. Each way, you are given a snack box and beverages, which come with your ticket and on the return journey, enjoy a fashion show featuring an alpaca wool collection, modelled by train staff.

Once at Machu Picchu Pueblo station, take a bus to the actual site, which requires climbing steep and uneven steps so make sure you're in the right footwear. Since you are closer to the sun, the risk of sunburn is real, so go as early as you can and use plenty of sunscreen. A trip around the site takes a minimum of two to three hours.

Fun facts: The original name of Machu Picchu was Picchu or Huayna Picchu, according to researchers. The citadel, built in the 15th century at an altitude of 2,500m on orders from the Inca ruler Pachacutec is considered a marvel of architecture and engineering and was declared a Unesco World Heritage Site in 1981.

Once you've taken the bus back to the station town, head to Chullos Restaurant & Craft Beer for lunch and a taste of the Peruvian delicacy, cuy. Peruvians have been consuming guinea pigs since the Inca Empire. It is even in the painting of The Last Supper in the Cusco Cathedral.

Back in Ollantaytambo for the night, the town's small square is the place to hang out like locals. Though, there is not much to be done, the place to eat is Chuncho, the sister restaurant of El Albergue. Chuncho offers traditional, native dishes with local ingredients. The word "Chuncho" comes from the Quechua language and means "native" and "wild".

Miraflores

Back in Lima, stay in the upscale district of Miraflores, which offers coastal views, shopping and food. Miraflores is also home to two of the most outstanding restaurants in Peru -- Maido and Mayta.

Maido

Mitsuharu "Micha" Tsumura is the chef-patron of Maido, where Nikkei cuisine takes centre-stage. In Japanese, maido means "welcome" and this word forms the name of Latin America's No.1 restaurant 2023. The word Nikkei describes immigrants of Japanese origin in Peru and also lends itself to the cuisine of these immigrants.

The cuisine at Maido, a casual fine dining restaurant with a la carte and tasting menus, is a historic blend of Japan and Peru's culinary heritages. "There is no such thing as Nikkei cuisine in Japan. Nikkei is Peruvian. Nikkei is sexy cuisine because it combines the power of Peruvian cuisine -- the seasoning and spices -- with the delicacy and precision of Japanese cuisine," explains chef Tsumura.

Mayta

Mayta means "Noble Land" in Aymara, the language of the South American Indian group living on the Altiplano, a plateau in the Andes. It is chef Jaime Pesaque's flagship restaurant and is a personal contemporary expression of Peruvian cuisine based on flavours and preparations of memory and history brought to actuality.

Chef Pesaque has also created Yachay, an exploration and learning space that accompanies Mayta's philosophy and culminates in an 11-course tasting menu. I highly recommend visiting Mayta on your last day in Peru, as the meal leaves you with joy, for everything Peru.

A journey to the other end of the Earth may take two days but a visit to Peru, home to the humble potato and 55 varieties of corn, is needed for the soul. It is where one feels closest to the Earth, literally.