While most tourists are always rushing to get to the islands, Trat town remains peaceful and easy to explore. Every long weekend, drivers are waiting patiently in a line to spend their time on Koh Chang, though it takes more than two hours to get on the ferry, and another hour to get to resorts.
With neglected beaches and a number of resorts, Trat is a paradise for sea lovers. However, most tourists always head to islands such as Koh Chang as soon as possible, passing the town without any effort to see how lovely it is.
Trat town is quite a peaceful place. Small lanes are lined with old style architecture. Bang Phra Canal snakes through the heart of the old community, which dates back centuries.
When the canal was a main route for transport, this community served as a market. Island dwellers loaded their boats with coconuts while Chinese merchants made their way here by junk to offers clothes and ceramic ware. Jungle dwellers came here with spices and herbs.
Thana Charoen Road, which runs along the canal, is lined with old-fashioned houses and shops, interrupted with guesthouses, tour desks, restaurants and bars. Big murals occupy house walls, depicting the easy lifestyle in the canal-side community.
The red flag with a white elephant can be noticed in front of some houses. The flag is used to celebrate Trat Independence Day.
Trat was at one point under French occupation. When colonisation was threatening Southeast Asia, French troops landed and occupied the western part of Chanthaburi province in 1893. Thailand, or Siam at that time, surrendered to regain Chanthaburi. France retreated but occupied Trat instead in 1904.
In the French-Thai War, 1940-1941, the French navy sailed from Saigon, now Ho Chi Minh, of Vietnam, attempting to seize Trat and this led to the battle of Koh Chang. Three Thai ships were sunk.
The province was returned to Siam three years later, in exchange for larger areas along the Mekong River, including Battambang, Siem Reap and Sisophon, now in Cambodia. So, in March every year, the Trat people celebrate their independence by flying Siam's national flag, the red flag with white elephant in the middle, in front of their homes.
Today, there is nothing indicating the French occupation, except Resident Kampot which remains in the town.
Resident Kampot was the official residence of French governors while ruling Trat during the occupation period. The century-old wooden house has remained well preserved.
Trat Museum is a good place to learn about this coastal province. Hidden behind an old wooden building on concrete stilts is a modern exhibition telling interesting stories of the province, its history and culture.
Trat is home to various races: Chinese traders, Muslim Cambodians and Thai Buddhists. As tourism is not quite booming, local lifestyles can be easily seen around here.
"No, you cannot walk in places and find everything prepared for tourists. Local people will stick to their routine jobs. Tourist activities will be prepared for advance booking only. Trust me, otherwise you will be disappointed," Rungrote Swarkgarn, assistant curator of Trat Museum, explains. "They do not thrive on tourism only. It is not their life."
Anyway, it is worthwhile to explore the town. Ban Nam Chiao is a place you can expect local lifestyles, though you do not need any arrangement in advance. The fishing village is home to Islamic people whose ancestors migrated from Cambodia around two centuries ago. "Do you want some rambutan?" an old lady greets me. Her shop is situated next to the 200-year-old Masjid. She amiably greets visitors and explains about her home.
"That fisherman is actually a teacher. He earns extra during school vacation by catching fish. He just puts those cylinders into the water. Fish see them as shelters. He just catches those fish without using any bait. This is local wisdom."
Besides offering a homestay service which allows tourists to learn about lifestyles in the fishing village, Ban Nam Chiao is famed for Trat's local hat, known as ngop nam chiao. It is a folk-style handmade palm leaf hat identified with the Nam Chiao community. The hat is made into a distinct shape looking like an overturned frying pan or soldier's hat in former times.
Wat Bupharam is a place that mirrors the fine blending of races in the province. Though the temple's chapel contains Thai architectural style, the mural inside is obviously done by Chinese artists. Chinese warriors, lions and angels blend well with Thai-style Buddha statues and architecture.
I explore the old quarter of Trat town, roaming through the old community filled up with street art, then complete the trip with seafood dinner in the mangrove forest. This small town is a nice place to relax, before heading to the bustling island of Koh Chang.
A mural in Wat Bupharam shows a blend of Chinese and Thai styles.
Handmade hats for sale in Ban Nam Chiao.
Exhibition in Trat Museum.
The old national flag of Siam adorns many houses.
