Service off the rails
In recent weeks, I have made several trips between Ubon Ratchathani and Bangkok, mostly using the new "Special Express Train Service" (in first class), which offers a rail service that, in the 21st century, could best be described as "adequate".
Two days ago, however, finding the service fully booked in first class, I settled for a first-class trip on what was described as the "express" train service, which left Ubon some 30 minutes after its "special" counterpart had departed.
I had nostalgic visions of reliving my trips to Chiang Mai back in the early 2000s, using what is now the "old" service, where attendants would come to the compartment and take orders for good food and a few cold beers before one settled down to a rickety ride, perchance to dream, on the sleeper train. I knew that the possibility of any alcohol being served was now off the menu, thanks to the criminal actions of one of SRT's own staff, but that did not deter me at all. It should have!
The basic express train in first class was still in the same old carriages although it seemed as though they had not been washed since the last time I had travelled. The sleeping cabins were absolutely filthy, with a black substance around the floor edges that was attempting to defy gravity and rise up the walls of the compartment. A microbiologist could probably have undertaken a doctoral thesis on the health hazards posed by such squalor.
The express train left 30 minutes after its more modern "special" counterpart and was scheduled to take one hour and twenty-five minutes longer to trundle to Bangkok -- a total of 11 hours and 10 minutes, no less. As it happened, the train arrived one and a half hours late in Bangkok -- so it was a 12-hour, 40-minute journey time in total.
To add insult to injury, no bottled water was provided (as per the special service) and when I asked if I could have a hot drink, I was casually informed, somewhat belatedly, that there was no buffet car on the train -- on a journey lasting a little shy of 13 hours!
Today, I read of the new high-speed train links that are being planned and thought, "Who are they for?" Should the State Railway of Thailand be providing a 21st century service for all long-suffering rail travellers, or catering for a few rich people who will be able to afford the new (probably named "luxury") fast service?
The next time I make the journey, I will most definitely drive -- less economical or environmentally friendly -- but who can blame me in light of recent experiences courtesy of the SRT?
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