A tour of city hall and various temples in the old quarters of Battambang in what is now Cambodia's far northwest reveals a shared architectural heritage that once bound the Cambodian city with Thailand's eastern province of Prachin Buri.
One pharmaceutical expert, driven by personal fascination with the architectural integrity of Battambang and Prachin Buri, has chronicled stories about a former governor who was the "bridge" between the two towns, and their shared architectural and cultural heritage.
Battambang borders Sa Kaeo, which was split from Prachin Buri in 1993.
It was among three cities that were once colonies of the old Siam before they fell into the hands of France in 1907 during the French occupation of Indochina under the reign of King Rama V.
Siam annexed Battambang in 1795 under the reign of King Rama I. It had been 112 years before the land fell into French hands.
Chao Phraya Abhaibhubejhr (Chum Abhaiwongsa) was the last governor of Battambang while it was under the control of Siam. He was born and raised as Battambang's favourite son.
Following the handover of the city, Chao Phraya Abhaibhubejhr decided to move out of Battambang and resettled in Prachin Buri along with his followers. He was said to have been asked to stay on as governor in Prachin Buri but he refused.
Supaporn Pitiporn, secretary-general of the Chao Phraya Abhaibhubejhr Hospital Foundation in Prachin Buri, said she was fascinated by the story of Chao Phraya Abhaibhubejhr and Battambang where he grew up. Tangible ties, which live on today in the form of common building designs and architecture in the two cities, still stand.
In 2009, she went to Battambang to survey buildings she believed had been commissioned by Chao Phraya Abhaibhubejhr based on their architecture and building materials.
Ms Supaporn first documented the Chao Phraya Abhaibhubejhr Building, a two-storey mansion built in a baroque style inside the hospital's compound.
The building, commissioned in 1909 by Chao Phraya Abhaibhubejhr, now serves as a museum of traditional Thai herbal medicine.
She learned that the patterned cement tiles laid in the property were imported from France by Chao Phraya Abhaibhubejhr and his father-in-law.
Similar tiles were also used in the construction of the Battambang City Hall, which was commissioned by Chao Phraya Abhaibhubejhr in 1901, when he was the governor there.
Similar tiles were also used in the construction or renovation of 20 temples along the banks of the Sangkae River which passes through Battambang.
A bust of Chao Phraya Abhaibhubejhr (Chum Abhaiwongsa), who was the last governor of Battambang while it was under the control of Siam.
"Thailand lost to France in the Ror Sor 112 incident (Franco-Siamese Crisis 1893), but we still kept Chanthaburi and Trat under our control," said Ms Supaporn.
Following the loss of Battambang to France, Prince Damrong Rajanubhab, a son of King Rama V, confided in Chao Phraya Abhaibhubejhr.
He said the country's defence and territorial sovereignty demanded that Chanthaburi and Trat remain part of Siam to fend off any attempt by foreign powers to break into the eastern frontier and advance toward the capital, known then as Phra Nakhon, easily, according to Ms Supaporn.
"After Battambang was detached from Siam, Chao Phraya Abhaibhubejhr and his forces came to resettle in Prachin Buri, though he could have opted to keep his residence in Battambang," Ms Supaporn said.
Last year, Ms Supaporn led a team, including lecturers from Silpakorn University, to survey the 20 temples in Battambang. The group entered Cambodia through the Ban Laem border checkpoint in Pong Nam Ron district of Chanthaburi.
Battambang is part of the rice belt of Cambodia. So much rice is produced here, the output is sufficient to feed the entire country.
Today, the Siamese influence is still prevalent in various locations in Battambang. Ms Supaporn and her team have surveyed 17 temples and places of interest in the province and saw the rich architectural legacy which the Siamese kingdom was left behind.
The first stop was Battambang City Hall, which some locals refer to as the Chao Phraya Abhaibhubejhr Building. The property was built to show off elegant design, from the inside out.
However, Chao Phraya Abhaibhubejhr had never formally used the building as he and his family had to move to Prachin Buri suddenly after the fall of Battambang into French hands.
He and his family members had strong faith in Buddhism and commissioned a number of temples to be built in Battambang.
Iconic Khmer building structure combined with Thai religious architecture in the central part of a temple in Battambang.
One of them is Wat Sangkae which was constructed on the orders of Chao Phraya Abhaibhubejhr's parents, whose ashes are enshrined in a stupa there.
Another temple, Wat Damrey Sor, was commissioned by Chao Phraya Abhaibhubejhr to fulfil his vow associated with good luck to be bestowed on his wife, Kunying Sa-ing. Today, her ashes are kept in the stupa inside the temple, which features artisan crafts around its ubosot, or ordination hall.
Also, the Abhaibhubejhrs are patrons of Wat Samrong Kanong which has held religious ceremonies sponsored by the family for generations. It is here that the family stores 12 urns of family members' ashes and bones.
During the period of genocide inflicted by the Khmer Rouge from 1975 to 1979, the temple was turned into a detention facility where the regime meted out severe punishment against fellow countrymen they considered to be enemies.
In another location, Wat Kalayanamit features beautiful paintings on the walls, ceilings and poles with a masterpiece Buddha image, though the temple's exterior appears to be in a run-down condition.
Within the Chao Phraya Abhaibhubejhr's residential compound, Wat Kampaeng stands a stall which Ms Supaporn and her team also visited.
Observers also attach historical significance to Wat Prap Panjamit, the first Siamese temple to have been established in Battambang when the city was under Bangkok's rule.
It was commissioned by Chao Phraya Bodindecha (Sing Singhaseni). The ubosot's tympanum bears a coat of arms signifying the Chakri dynasty and the Phra Kan Chai Sri sword and a baton placed on a Waen Fah pedestal tray. The temple is also home to a Thai-designed stupa with perfect decorations, including plaster statues displaying the likeness of Chao Phraya Abhaibhubejhr and Chao Phraya Bodindecha.
Another temple connected to Chao Phraya Abhaibhubejhr is Wat Kon Dueng (Wat Rakang) where he was ordained as a monk. The temple's gate features a plaster statute of Erawan, the elephant god, as well as its mahout that is wearing what looks like a Thai military uniform.
The team also toured Wat Palad, home to an attractive principle Buddha image. The temple was found to be "too glamorous" by the Khmer Rouge. Chao Phraya Abhaibhubejhr was said to have lived at the temple to learn magic powers from a senior monk.
The team moved on and visited Wat Sophee which houses a principal Buddha image, commonly called a "sweet-eyed Buddha image". The temple was commissioned by Chao Phraya Abhaibhubejhr's father-in-law, Khun Klang Mao. The temple was elegant and spacious, which underlines the wealth of the creator.
In the centre of the city lies Wat Klang which has attractive curves on its roofs with sizeable and beautiful bagels.
Wat Kro (Wat Ton Noon), on the other hand, contains one-of-a-kind paintings with delicately swerving patterns and colours showing off Siamese influence.
Wat Kaew has an outstanding plaster foundation on which a Buddha image stands. The base is decorated elaborately with glass.
Wat Pipit, known by its full name of Wat Pipittiram, was once a place where Chao Phraya Abhaibhubejhr and other Thais studied religion.
At Wat Samphao, which has a two-storey concrete ubosot, has a six-coloured (chabbanna-ramsi) flag that symbolises international Buddhism. It is believed a pole put up in front of the temple was brought all the way from Siam.
Ms Supaporn said her team also stopped at Wat Lam Duan which has a building structure that resembles the Chao Phraya Abhaibhubejhr Building in Prachin Buri.
Another Siamese-influenced temple is Wat Ma Toom which was seized and turned into a local hospital by the Khmer Rouge. Many patients were treated there.
Also on the team's itinerary was Wat Salaket defined by its unique curved ceiling and its interior walls adorned by beautiful paintings.
"Thailand and Cambodia share the same blood that runs through their veins," said Ms Supaporn.
She said that as Asean countries stress their economic links, they pay little attention to preserving the region's cultural pillars.
The Prachin Buri and Battambang split provides good examples of how a common artistic culture can survive an administrative change.
A temple door is marked by a drawing of divinity associated with the building. Photos by Praepraphan Naiyuti
Battambang City Hall, which some locals refer to as the Chao Phraya Abhaibhubejhr Building, is a testament to shared architectural ties with Thailand. Battambang was once Thai territory.
Murals reflecting Thai art adorn the interior of one of the more than a dozen temples Ms Supaporn and her team visited in Battambang.
