A tiny museum in a school tells stories of a big man. On the ground floor of a wooden house on stilts, students are enjoying sweets and soft drinks while exploring the small exhibition. With different tasks to complete, kids take notes and pictures of the information board. It is likely that they are picnicking rather than doing reports.
"It is a fun-filled event all students look forward to," says Thanyaphat Mitsaranphat, curator of Chao Phraya Bodindecha Museum, with a smile. "It is a kind of treasure hunt."
Though it is a small museum situated in Bodindecha (Sing Singhaseni) School, it is the best place if you want to learn about Chao Phraya Bodindecha, an important person of the early Rattanakosin era.
Descendants of Chao Phraya Bodindecha donated a plot of land to the school in 1971. Five years later, this three-room museum was built to commemorate him.
"The students have to learn about Chao Phraya Bodindecha's history and even why Saen Saeb Canal was created. People remember King Rama III for his wealth and the beautiful Buddhist temples he built. But not many people realise that Siam engaged in war with Vietnam," says Thanyaphat.
Chao Phraya Bodindecha (Sing Singhaseni) was one of the most prominent political and military figures during the reign of King Rama III. Sing was both a top military general and chief minister in charge of civilian affairs. He is known for putting down the Lao Rebellion (1826-1828) and for the Annam-Siam War (the war between Vietnam and Thailand: 1831-1834 and 1841-1845).
Sing was born in 1777 in Bangkok. He was under service to Prince Isarasundhorn, the heir apparent who was later crowned King Rama II. He then became acquainted with Prince Chetsadabodin who was crowned as King Rama III.
When Chao Anouvong of Vientiane (King Xaiya Setthathirath V, 1767-1829) gained Vietnamese assistance and rebelled against Siam in 1826, King Rama III sent him, as a general, to suppress the rebellion. Sing defeated Lao troops who had invaded Siam's northeastern region. A few years later, the rebellion resumed again. By orders of the Thai monarch, Anouvong was captured and the capital of Vientiane was completely destroyed. However, Wat Si Saket, an important Buddhist building, was spared.
A statue of Chao Phraya Bodindecha in front of the museum in Bodindecha School.
After completing the mission, Sing was promoted as chief minister in charge of civilian affairs and was known as Chao Phraya Bodindecha.
In the 1830s, Siam and Annam (presently Vietnam) had been quarrelling over Cambodia. Saen Saeb Canal was dug to establish a route for transporting soldiers and weapons to Cambodia. The canal connected Chao Phraya River to Prachin Buri and Chachoengsao. Construction started in 1837 and was finished three years later, under Sing's supervision. It later served as a transportation route for agricultural products into Bangkok.
"While most Thai people know Saen Saeb Canal from a love scene from the Thai romantic novel Phlae Kao, students at Bodindecha (Sing Singhaseni) School know the canal as an express way created particularly for the war. Chao Phraya Bodindecha, who experienced war with Cambodia, knew the canal was a great shortcut for the Siamese troops," says Thanyaphat.
"The site of the school once was rice paddies which were used to supply food to the troops. It later was inherited by descendants of Chao Phraya Bodindecha. However, the vast field was built on and the canal is now full of dirty water. This museum helps keep this fading piece of history alive."
As chancellor, Chao Phraya Bodindecha had full responsibility for the war. In 1841, he put Cambodia's Prince Ang Duong, who escaped civil war and fled to Bangkok for 27 years, on the Cambodian throne and supervised Cambodia. The peace negotiation between Siam and Vietnam took place in 1845. Bodindecha stayed in Cambodia until 1848 when he returned to Siam and died a year later of cholera.
Thanyaphat walks me around the museum, of which three rooms on the first floor feature the history of King Rama III, Chao Phraya Bodindecha and the school, respectively.
The room dedicated to Chao Phraya Bodindecha features rare stuff donated directly from the Singhaseni family. Besides Chinese furniture, utensils and rare tableware, elegantly displayed in the room are various weapons namely swords, sabres, halberds and spears, and a decorative hat which probably belonged to Chao Phraya Bodindecha, according to the historian.
Though belongings of Chao Phraya Bodindecha are not plentiful, there are a number of temples maintained and nourished by Chao Phraya Bodindecha. Today, his statues are found in Wat Chakkawat of Bangkok, temples in Sa Kaeo and Prachin Buri provinces as well as in Battambang and Oudong in Cambodia.
The wars Chao Phraya Bodindecha was involved in were also factors instigating migration. There are Lao communities from Vientiane at Wat Si Boonruang, in Bang Kapi district of Bangkok, and another Lao community at Wat Pak Bo in the On Nut area. The enclave around Wat Kachon Siri in On Nut was once a Cambodian community. All moved into Bangkok's suburbia during the reign of King Rama III.
Students tirelessly roam the tiny museum, giggling with friends, exploring and taking selfies with the exhibits.
"At least they do not find it a boring place. After a TV series about Chao Phraya Bodindecha recently, students are more interested to learn about this part of Siamese history," she smiles.
The museum opens Mon to Fri. Admission is free but prior contact is recommended. Call 02-514-1403 ext 639.
Chao Phraya Bodindecha is located in the compound of Bodindecha (Sing Singhaseni) School, 40 Ramkhamhaeng 43/1, Plap Pla, Wang Thonglang, Bangkok 10310.
