Trainspotting
Re: "Keep Thailand's rail history on track", (Opinion, Feb 24).
Associate Professor Parinya Chukaew's opinion on heritage matters seemingly reflects what is in my soul, as the Germans have it, those who built that first line to Chiang Mai.
It's indeed highly overdue that what still can be saved be finally recognised as an enormous cultural asset hiding and wasting away in plain sight!
It would help to add that there are train lines (such as the mountain railways of India etc) that have been declared Unesco World Heritage Sites. Both you and I could nominate our own candidates in this kingdom, I'm sure.
Everything Associate Professor Parinya writes is spot-on, yet, as is quite normal (not a "professional deformation"), you seem totally focused on the station architecture. May I add my own perspective, slightly more "holistic", even if this word is coming a bit too much in fashion?
I have seen some of these restored stations removed from their original sites, and they look embalmed, plasticised, and cold -- a bit like Ho Chi Minh's mummy or Lenin's in Moscow. However, I agree with preservation or conservation -- maybe, not quite this way.
For me, Thai stations are gesamtkunstwerk or a total work of art, beginning with their locations. Just a few examples -- those seemingly afloat on a shimmering sea of young green paddy fields lapping straight up to the tracks -- their tiny bucolic stations more dreaming islands than anything else (just a single one for all: Huai Sam Phat. The ones guarded by forests: Huai Sieu?)
Those shaded by great, old rain trees Nam Phong or Huai Suan Kwang. The mountain stations Khun Tan and many more. Even those (quite shockingly) located right amidst prime archaeological sites, like a station in Lop Buri province.
Or simply a glorious terminus, like Kantang in the southern coastal province of Trang?
The royal ones I should have begun with, not just Chitrlada but also Bang Pa In, of course, Hua Hin as their jewel, even Sawankhalok, the side-line built exclusively for King Rama VI's visits to Sukhothai.
What really delights me is their lovingly tended trees, plants, and flowers, trellis-gateways which also enchant foreigners of all shades: European, Japanese, and so on. These are elongated, straight-line dream gardens, and adding to their loveliness, each one is an example of Thai individualism, taste (even if "bad"), and hard labour.
Even their quirky humour, adorned (or disfigured) with kitsch statuettes of staggering variety (one station on the Korat line even tarting up their palms with neon-coloured fake coconuts). For me, such places are destinations in their own right, as the Michelin Guide has it: Vaut le voyage, worth the whole journey!
Can you take more -- like a long train schedule, with many, many lovely stations?
Are they intangible cultural assets? Including the ring of those brass bells and the beautiful, proudly-polished, iconic objects themselves?
The station masters' immaculate uniform and proud ceremony with a whistle, flags red or green while minutes before, he was probably crouching in his vegetable patch and will promptly return there the minute the holy schedule permits.
For me, the SRT staff are probably the only "clean", dutiful uniforms in the country -- who needs to bribe a train conductor?
The bustle and cackle of the train food vendors, mostly old ladies still with their baskets swinging from long bamboo on their shoulders. The smell of Isan gai yang (grilled chicken) or all the other delicacies (but not always!) for sale?
If all that must disappear for progress, shouldn't your students record all that culture, individual videos of that inexhaustibly rich spectacle? I have done so for many years and would gladly turn what I have over to you!
As to possible uses for dismantled old stations: may I add a few others? Europe is dotted with exquisite, small Thai-style pavilions, mostly royal-sponsored: in Germany, Scandinavia, and Switzerland. They are much loved, cherished and visited by the locals.
If Thai communities don't appreciate them, what about goodwill donations to foreign countries, cementing friendship: Old Thai railway stations in China, Japan or European parks, even in Dubai or Saudi? Bingo!
Hall O'Stephen
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